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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

All stories relating to French

The Dish

De-licious

23 Comments

12 best bets for Winterlicious 2011: our chief critic goes through the menus so you don’t have to

A steak dinner at Noce (Image: Renée Suen)

Big-spending downtown Torontonians have taken in the past few years to whining about Winterlicious, but the two-week dining festival, running from January 28 through February 10, remains popular for a reason: it offers great value, particularly if you choose your reservations well. Here are a dozen of Toronto Life’s best bets. They’re older, more established places, generally, with kitchens that clearly care. And though we haven’t yet tasted the restaurants’ 2011 Winterlicious menus, they’re full of interesting, delicious-sounding picks.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Sorrel, the new Yorkville spot from Prego’s former chef

Prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed with goat cheese (Images: Jon Sufrin)

Back in its halcyon days, Prego Della Piazza was chic even by Yorkville standards. So when landlords opted not to renew its lease, forcing it to close earlier this year, it was not without a bit of foodie sentimentality. The good news is that executive chef and general manager Faro Chiniforoush—previously of Sperling’s and Rosewater Supper Club—has taken nearly the entire Prego team and opened his own place slightly north on Yorkville Avenue. Welcome to Sorrel.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Ceno, Av and Dav’s latest spin on haute Italian

Ceno's venison comes with bones, blueberries

To set up a new Italian restaurant in the epicentre of Yorkville’s Mini Italy—that short stretch of Avenue where L’Unita, Sotto Sotto, Maléna and Spuntini pretty much join hands—is quite a gambit. And it’s a good thing for Ceno, which opened up here last month, because despite pervasive trappings of Italian-ness, this is not exactly an Italian restaurant. It’s close, though: nearly all the staff hail from the motherland (maitre d’ Juri Giannelli uses his mother’s maiden name to prove his authenticity), its moniker is Latin for “to dine” and service is based on the old-world tradition of schooled waiters.

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The Hype

Shelf Life

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Apple promises to make iBookstore more Canadian

For once, Apple is bowing to our demands. The federal government yesterday approved the company’s iBookstore in Canada, but Apple had to make some promises. One is that it will use iBookstore Canada to promote Canadian titles (both English and French) and improve their catalogue of works by Aboriginal authors and publishers. The company also says it will help Canadian publishers create e-books

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The Dish

Opening

9 Comments

Introducing: Le Rossignol, a restaurant that might kick off Queen East’s French revolution

Chef Seguinot’s seared wild Pacific salmon with rapini, lima beans and a saffron jus (Image: Signe Langford)

No need to Google it; we’ll just tell you: le rossignol is French for “nightingale.” It’s the name of the new Gallic restaurant that’s slipping into the old Pop Bistro space on Queen East. It’s also a mistake. “I love Edith Piaf,” explains the new owner, Richard Henry, “and I thought her nickname was The Nightingale. I was wrong. It’s The Sparrow, but it was too late, and anyway, we liked this better.”

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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La Palette shuttering its Kensington location this weekend

When Shamez Amlani muses about this coming Sunday, it’s not without a little sentimentality. Three days from now, the restaurant he co-owns in Kensington Market, La Palette, will shut its doors for good so that he and his team can concentrate on the Queen West location. Ten years ago, Amlani and his associates applied a meagre $18,000 to a grungy Chinese joint and turned it into an edgy French bistro. They never imagined that it would have taken off the way it did. “It’s a miracle,” Amlani tell us. “We shot at the moon, and we actually hit it.”

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the $38 Trust the Chef prix fixe at Didier

Didier Leroy, English Canada’s first Maître Cuisinier de France, offers one of Toronto’s more curious lunch experiences: a three-course mystery menu in which the entire table must participate. On this sunny afternoon, our trust in the chef pays off handsomely. A pair of baked eggs coddled with black truffles and foie gras arrive in an irresistibly rich madeira sauce. Next, Atlantic salmon roulade, kissed with briny sturgeon caviar, arrives on a bed of sweet braised leeks and puréed potatoes. The meal finishes with a crème brûlée that’s creamy cool, with hints of Tahitian vanilla and a thick, golden sugar crust.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Ici Bistro, Harbord Street’s little restaurant that could

Jennifer Decorte and J.P. Challet at Ici Bistro (Image: Davida Aronovitch)

Ici Bistro is open for business. No, really.

Two years after they signed the lease on 538 Manning Avenue, J.P. Challet and Jennifer Decorte’s modern French bistro is finally serving dinner. The official grand opening isn’t until mid-November, but the place has its liquor licence and has been packed for the past week. All of its 24 seats are reserved for the next 14 days, too, thanks to the restaurant’s very long and public fight for survival. Guests have graffitied a wall with well wishes, and neighbours have even brought gifts. One local couple has booked three times in Ici’s first week of operation. “It’s the only restaurant we’ve ever worked at where everybody hugs each other,” says Decorte. “It’s like a family.”

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The Dish

Opening

9 Comments

Introducing: Beau Lieu Bistro, Ossington’s new French detour

Western reflections: Ossington Avenue appears in the window of Beau Lieu Bistro (Image: John Michael McGrath)

These days, the buzz on the Ossington hip strip is near Dundas, but diners willing to walk south, past the hours-long lineups at Pizzeria Libretto and Foxley, will eventually come upon the street’s latest addition: Beau Lieu Bistro. Slotted in between The Ossington and Pho Tien Thanh, the six-week-old French restaurant is the child of French-born and trained Sarah Gireau and chef Lon, both formerly of Jacques Bistro du Parc in Yorkville. The pair had been working together for eight years when Lon was approached with the opportunity to open a restaurant near Ossington and Queen. He jumped at the chance.

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The Dish

Opening

2 Comments

Battle of the baguettes: with Marché back at Brookfield Place, will its rivalry with Richtree be rekindled?

Marché, the open-air counter-service restaurant that looks like Epcot’s interpretation of a French market, is finally opening at Brookfield Place Friday, much to the relief of nearby office workers and hungry tourists who got lost in the Path trying to find the Hockey Hall of Fame. It’s been six years since Marché packed up its wicker baskets and left Canada after a long and bitter legal dispute with Richtree’s former owner, Jorg Reichert. Now, with him gone, it seems like Marché is making a fresh start at Richtree’s flagship spot. The question now is, Will the Richtree-versus-Marché rivalry continue, even with so much water under the bridge?

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

15 Comments

Fisherman’s Friends: Chris Nuttall-Smith reviews Maléna and The Atlantic

The season’s most anticipated openings are two seafood-centric spots

Maléna at Av and Dav (Image: Ryan Szulc)

Toronto is a raw bar town. We’re over-served by excellent oyster houses, and we probably consume more sushi per capita than any city east of Vancouver. But cooked fish is a problem here; we’ve never had a standout seafood spot. This spring, Nathan Isberg, of Czehoski and Coca fame, opened what early adopters described as a nose-to-tail disciple’s take on the life aquatic on Dundas West. And in Yorkville, a neighbourhood that’s desperate for a few more decent places to eat, front-of-house kings David Minicucci and Sam Kalogiros launched Maléna, a flashy fish spot. It looked like Toronto might finally turn into a seafood town.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Bonjour Brioche

Say “hello” to one of the city’s best bakeries, which also happens to serve a pretty fantastic lunch.

The place: The best French bakery west of Leslieville is as famous for its pastries as it is for its weekend brunch (and lineups), but on a weekday afternoon, we’re seated in no time on the cozy, shaded patio. The small interior, cluttered with baker’s racks, is charmingly no frills.

The crowd: From Riverdale families to work-at-home freelancers to shoppers taking a break from antiquing, everyone on this sunny Wednesday seems to be moving at a languid, mid-summer pace.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

5 Comments

Bio Picks: 10 top eco-wines

Eco-wines that taste so good your guests will never know they’re saving the planet

(Illustration: Brian Rea)

I’m all for protecting the environment, but when it comes to wine, what I care about most is taste. Fortunately, there’s good news on the eco-friendly front. Like organics, biodynamic wines are free of pesticides, fungicides, herbicides and chemical fertilizers, but the eco-balanced regimen is even more stringent. One of biodynamic vintners’ main aims is to strengthen the soil and, therefore, the vines. They bury cows’ horns filled with compost material in the soil and take cues from lunar cycles for planting and pruning. The techniques might sound paganistic, but such meticulous attention often results in better tasting wine. I’ve also found that biodynamic wines offer unparalleled expressions of terroir. The best I’ve tasted was a famous Loire Valley chenin blanc made by French biodynamic proponent Nicolas Joly. The Coulée de Serrant is a sinewy, incredibly intense wine that radiates flint and oyster shell—there’s no question that it comes from chalk soil vineyards in a maritime climate on the banks of the broad Loire.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Where to eat lunch this week: Loire

The French dishes at this Harbord Street restaurant stun as much at lunch as they do at dinner

(Images: Renée Suen)

The place: This south Annex gem promises gourmet bistro fare both noon and night, but there’s extra incentive in the summer: Loire’s breezy canopy-covered terrace.

The crowd: Neighbourhood regulars, golf shirt-clad businessmen, university professors and administrators playing hooky.

The deal: The midday menu of French-inspired comfort foods may be priced the same as it is at dinner, but the selections are excellently matched with the time of day.

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

1 Comment

Where to eat lunch this week: Delux

Ossington’s French-Cuban fixture has started serving lunch—and there’s plenty to celebrate

Cubano sandwich at Delux (Images: Catherine Hayday)

The place: Now chugging toward its third year, Delux was among the first to set up kitchen on Ossington’s restaurant row. Though the dinner menu is described as “rustic French,” the midday card is distinctly, deliciously Cuban.

The crowd: Three quarters of the tables are occupied by stylish people who have the sort of jobs that accommodate regular leisurely west-end lunches. (No, we don’t know what they do, either.)

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