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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

All stories relating to French

The Dish

From the Print Edition

6 Comments

Just Opened: we review Agave y Aguacate, Fanny Chadwick’s and Liberty Belle Bistro

Mexican street food reborn in the market, a greasy spoon–less diner on Dupont, and Liberty Village’s latest bistro

Agave y Aguacate $30 Gourmet
214 Augusta Ave., 647-208-3091

Chef-owner Francisco Alejandri’s excellent food stall is the headliner in a shoestring–budget Latin American food court in Kensington Market. It consists of little more than a stainless steel prep table with a deep fryer, two induction burners, a small refrigerator, a toaster and a food processor. Alejandri, who wears a suave white Panama hat while he works, is an exceedingly good cook. He does a fantastic flank steak salad—the meat, sliced into thin strips, is tossed with tomatoes, red chilies, red onion, cilantro and lime juice, then garnished with house-fried tortilla chips. It makes for a brilliant lunch. The lime charlotte is better than most desserts you get in proper restaurants: the sweet-sour lime curd and Maria cookies are decadent but light with a squirt of lime juice and a drizzle of arbequina olive oil. Wait times can exceed 20 minutes but the trade-off is that the place is incredibly cheap. It would be thrilling to see what Alejandri would do with more space and a properly equipped kitchen. Closed Monday.

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The Dish

TV Diner

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Top Chef Canada recap, episode 6: horsing around

Dale MacKay before head judge Mark McEwan and his boss Daniel Boulud; French Food at Home’s Laura Calder (Image: Food Network Canada/Insight Products)

TOP CHEF CANADA
Season 1 | Episode 6

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Last night’s episode of Top Chef Canada might have featured superstar New York chef Daniel Boulud, but the viewing audience likely tuned in for another reason altogether: horsemeat-gate (last week’s preview for episode 6 revealed that horsemeat would make an appearance, setting off a pre-emptive e-backlash and prompting Metro Morning to call our own Chris Nuttall-Smith for his opinion). Aside from the horsemeat sideshow, the episode featured some entertaining character development­—Dale MacKay as a sore loser, Rob Rossi as a baby-faced trash talker—a classic Top Chef misstep and, for the first time, not a single chef in their underwear. Our recap of it all, after the jump.

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The Dish

TV Diner

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Next week’s episode of Top Chef Canada to feature horsemeat, outrage ensues

Oh, the controversy. At the end last week’s episode of Top Chef Canada, the preview for episode six featured, among other things, French-culinary-god-by-way-of-NYC Daniel Boulud as guest judge, a classic French cuisine challenge, and—how did we miss this?—horsemeat. Well, other viewers didn’t miss it, and many have been up in arms with Food Network Canada via Twitter and Facebook. They’ve even begun an online petition to boycott the network.

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The Informer

Battleground Toronto

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Toronto Star is last paper on earth to discover that anglophones aren’t keen on the BQ. Maybe there should there be a Bloc Torontois?

How can there still be reporters who are surprised to discover that English Canada hasn’t warmed to the Bloc Québécois being in parliament? This piece from the Toronto Star reports that “the current election campaign appears to be opening up a deep vein of anger in English Canada toward the Bloc Québécois,” but what struck us is how little evidence is given to support the theory. There’s a bit about negative reactions to Gilles Duceppe during the leaders debate, but for academic heft, the Star gives us this:

Setting up a fake identity as “Gord Tory” on Facebook, Johannes Wheeldon and some academic associates from Canada posted increasingly incendiary remarks about the BQ on the Facebook page to see how many friends “Gord” could attract.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Black Moon, the latest excuse for Bay Streeters to stick around after five

Inside Black Moon (Image: Daniel Barna)

With the notable exception of Bay Street’s upscale banker-bait, it’s been hard to imagine Toronto’s financial district ever becoming a destination for more casual fare. But with the recent openings of The Gabardine and Blowfish on Bay, and now Black Moon, a new resto-renaissance seems to be taking hold. “Most people who worked here would leave the neighbourhood as soon as they finished working, but that’s changing,” says owner Abdi Ghotb, also the man behind the Sandwich Box. Since opening last week, the glitzy resto-lounge is already becoming a go-to spot for Bay Street’s in-and-out lunch crowd as well as office castaways looking for a late-night libations.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best New Restaurants 2011

Oysters from Frank's Kitchen

This year’s crop of restaurants, from a million-dollar dining room to a brazen burger joint, pushed Toronto’s culinary culture in creative, comforting and blessedly cheap directions. Here, the 10 new spots that are redefining the way we eat, drink and play in the city

See the list »

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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DIY Gourmet: how to make La Palette’s Platonic French onion soup

(Image: Edward Pond)

The secret to La Palette’s peerless French onion soup is chef Brook Kavanagh’s slow-roasted beef bone broth

“French onion soup is a classic for good reason. The ingredients are straight­forward and cheap, but if the broth is done right, the result is deeply flavoured and totally comforting. I like to make my stock from organic shank bones for an intense and meaty taste. I started testing out recipes as a 14-year-old working in a butcher shop—I would take bones home with me—and 15 years later, I’m still tinkering as I make four or five batches of the stuff every day.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing Parkette: Italian comfort food, Trinity Bellwoods style

(Image: Davida Aronovitch)

Aptly named for its proximity to Trinity Bellwoods, Parkette is yet another new, rustic Italian outpost, this time only a couple blocks away from Terroni, which, arguably, launched the trend in Toronto. Cheery and warm, the 30-seat space features sandy blond woods, exposed brick, a playful park bench banquette in classic picnic green and a kitschy vintage Coca-Cola sign.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Just Opened: we review three of the city’s new restaurants

European invasion: a humble bistro, a homespun trattoria and a glam tapas bar

Le Rossignolstar
686 Queen St. E., 416-461-9663

The service in this small room at the edge of Leslieville is ably handled by a garrulous French woman who wears her glasses on a chain around her neck (she’s like a character from The Triplets of Belleville). The wine list is short but nice, and the menu is traditional bistro, with a few modern touches. An amuse-bouche shooter of smooth butternut squash soup dazzles with Chinese five-spice and is topped with coconut foam. Steaks are not a strength: one night’s flank is cut straight down rather than across the grain. It’s epically chewy, but the accompanying shoestring frites are addictive. Braised boar shank is brilliant: soft, moist and flavourful. Too bad it’s set on risotto that tastes like it was made long before service. The chef takes Wednesdays off, leaving the kitchen in less capable hands. Mains $17–$27.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Modern comforts: Chris Nuttall-Smith takes on Woodlot and Ici Bistro

Two neighbourhood restaurants serve up light-handed renditions of our rib-sticking favourites

(Image: Vanessa Heins)

The comfort food revolution has brought us much to be thankful for, including cheaper, more casual restaurants, and the glories of deep-fried mac-and-cheese, but it hasn’t exactly delivered a surge of culinary innovation. Spurred on by a sputtering economy, the comfort trend spawned a wave of barbecue joints, gourmet burger shops, neighbourhood pubs and by-the-book bistros, and it introduced childhood-evoking staples like cookies and milk to scores of restaurant menus where the “licorice root, three ways” used to be. It offered certainty when everything else around us seemed ready to collapse, not only for diners but for restaurateurs, too.

Comfort eating, like love and psychotherapy, is driven by equal measures of longing (for simpler times) and industrial-grade denial (s’mores are less fattening when they’re made with single-estate chocolate from São Tomé), powerful motivators both. So most chefs have been happy to feed our cravings without letting their own high-minded notions get in the way.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Good Stuff Cheap: four standout dinner dates for penny pinchers

(Image: Lorne Bridgman)

FOR A CINQ À SEPT
Devoted locavores should head to Beast after work Wednesday through Friday, when former Jamie Kennedy chefs Scott and Rachelle Vivian serve up nose-to-tail small plates—including pig’s head pappar­delle for only $4. Lovely Quebec and Ontario beers for pairing are also just $4; a number of wines are $5 a glass. 96 Tecumseth St., 647-352-6000.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

4 Comments

A total epiphany: the 12th day of Christmas wouldn’t be complete without traditional galette des rois. Here’s where to get them in Toronto

One size fits all: The leaf-etched galette des rois from Petite Thuet features flaky puff pastry, almond cream, fève and a golden crown (Image: Renée Suen)

Today is Epiphany—the 12th and final day of Christmas—which celebrates the day when the biblical three kings arrived to honour baby Jesus with gifts. What better way to mark the occasion than with carefully crafted forms of butter, flour and sugar? The galette des rois (the kings’ cake) is a puff pastry cake that’s associated with the festival in France. Traditional versions are filled with frangipane, but variations exist; some may be familiar with its garish sugar-embellished brioche cousin served at Mardi Gras and Carnival. In either form, a fève (traditionally a bean, but most bakeries use a ceramic figurine) is hidden within the buttery cake. The person who finds the trinket becomes “king for the day,” receiving various privileges, obligations (such as buying the cake for the next celebration) and a paper crown.

Here, our list of local bakeries carrying the seasonal specialty.

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The Dish

De-licious

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The Best of Winterlicious 2011: Toronto Life’s 62 favourite restaurants

(Image: Renée Suen, from the torontolife.com Flickr pool)

January is upon us, and for many hungry Torontonians, that means one thing: Winterlicious. The menus are less predictable than previous years—crème brûlée’s out,  lentils du Puy are in—so even the ’Licious haters might have a reason to take advantage of the festival this year. We’ve already named the 12 menus that we think are the best bets, but that doesn’t begin to cover it. Here, find Toronto Life’s 62 favourite Winterlicious restaurants, complete with menus, reviews and reservation numbers.

Winterlicious runs from January 28 to February 10. Reservations are accepted from January 13 onward (January 11 for American Express users).

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The Dish

De-licious

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12 best bets for Winterlicious 2011: our chief critic goes through the menus so you don’t have to

A steak dinner at Noce (Image: Renée Suen)

Big-spending downtown Torontonians have taken in the past few years to whining about Winterlicious, but the two-week dining festival, running from January 28 through February 10, remains popular for a reason: it offers great value, particularly if you choose your reservations well. Here are a dozen of Toronto Life’s best bets. They’re older, more established places, generally, with kitchens that clearly care. And though we haven’t yet tasted the restaurants’ 2011 Winterlicious menus, they’re full of interesting, delicious-sounding picks.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Sorrel, the new Yorkville spot from Prego’s former chef

Prosciutto-wrapped figs stuffed with goat cheese (Images: Jon Sufrin)

Back in its halcyon days, Prego Della Piazza was chic even by Yorkville standards. So when landlords opted not to renew its lease, forcing it to close earlier this year, it was not without a bit of foodie sentimentality. The good news is that executive chef and general manager Faro Chiniforoush—previously of Sperling’s and Rosewater Supper Club—has taken nearly the entire Prego team and opened his own place slightly north on Yorkville Avenue. Welcome to Sorrel.

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