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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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The Fixe Is In: James Chatto on Lynn Crawford’s new restaurant, Ruby Watchco

At Lynn Crawford’s new restaurant, customers eat whatever she feels like cooking that day. The concept is bold and bossy, but the celeb chef has the talent and swagger to pull it off

I had to admire their cool. With only four hours to go before the grand opening of Ruby Watchco, the restaurant’s three owners—chef Lynn Crawford, designer Cherie Stinson and her husband, front-of-house veteran Joey Skeir—were showing no sign of nerves. They were just sitting around the lunch table at the back of the restaurant, laughing and swapping renovation stories over a bottle of pinot grigio and an excellent chicken cobb salad made by head chef Lora Kirk. If this were an episode of Restaurant Makeover, the TV show that made Crawford and Stinson celebrities, there would be cussing and tears and all sorts of last-minute nail-biting melodramas to negotiate. But everything was pretty much ready, or would be once the last of the green masking tape was peeled off the front window. Even the tall boughs of quince blossom in a vase on the bar co-operated: all the buds popped open that morning, precisely on cue.

Lynn Crawford (left) and head chef Lora Kirk at their new restaurant, Ruby Watchco, on Queen East (Image: Ryan Szulc)

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best eight farmers’ markets

Nearly every downtown ’hood has a farmers’ market now, and although the best one is almost always the one closest to you, these markets are worth the trek.

bestmarkets

Ontario tomatoes (Photo by Daniel Shipp)

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Urban Decoder

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Is it appropriate to dicker over prices at the farmers’ market?

(Image: Devin Jeffrey)

Growing small quantities of organic produce is an expensive endeavour. When you’re forking over $8 for a basket of raspberries, you’re paying little more than the costs of production and labour, so our best advice is to suck it up or take your shopping cart to the fluorescent-lit aisles of the supermarket, where imported, pesticidal produce is available at half the price. That said, there are circum­stances in which market merchants are willing to make a deal. Anyone buying in larger quantities is likely to get a freebie, and loyal regulars will often find an extra turnip or two in their bag. For your best chance at bargain bounty, wait until the end of the day, when the spinach is starting to look a little limp. Just be warned: you’re risking the stink eye from the guy in overalls and the clan of ethical eaters around you.

• Question from Dana Greenfield, Riverdale

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The Informer

The Feds

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Base instincts: Are the Tories playing to their core supporters in cutting off funding to Toronto Pride?

Unfunded: Toronto Pride gets shafted by the feds (Image: Neal Jennings)

Who can forget last summer, when then–tourism minister Diane Ablonczy, surrounded by drag queens, handed nearly half a million dollars to Toronto’s gay pride festival. The Conservative party went a little bit crackers, and many alleged that Ablonczy was punished for supporting the event. The debacle posed a number of problems for Prime Minister Stephen Harper, so this year he’s come up with a tidy little solution: Toronto Pride will get exactly $0 for its 2010 festival. An event that attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists to Toronto will get nothing from a program designed to boost tourism in Canada. The obvious question is, Why?

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The Dish

Locavoracious

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Ignatieff supports local food, talks like Sarah Palin

Down home boy? You betcha (Image: Kyle McMartin)

Michael Ignatieff has announced that a Liberal government would implement a policy to provide support for farmers and to help Canadians eat Canadian food. Poutine jokes aside, the plan would lay out millions of dollars to promote farmers’ markets and home-grown foods, to ensure imported items meet local standards and to help children from low-income families access healthy food. The policy would also look into ways to make farms more environmentally sustainable. “You bet farming matters, you bet rural Canada matters,” he said to media.

We “bet” that Ignatieff “bets” that this is how rural folk speak (has he been studying Sarah Palin?). What, no Tolstoy references?

Michael Ignatieff pushes Eat Canadian plan [Toronto Star]

The Informer

The New Normal

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A guide to Toronto’s area codes: with the new 365, the city’s phone-based social hierarchy is evolving

Each area code in Toronto comes with a slew of stereotypes that—rightly or wrongly—are circulated with remarkable persistence (see Wikipedia’s “905 in popular culture”). When the GTA gets the new 365 in 2013, our region will become a seven–area code town, and the trash-talk hierarchy will only get more hilarious and complex. As Maestro has revealed no plans for a “416/647/905/289/365/519/226 (T.O. Party Anthem),” we offer this handy primer on phone-based bigotry—now, and for the years ahead.

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The Goods

Telling Tales

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First lady fashion faceoff: Bonnie Brooks vs. Laureen Harper

Bonnie Brooks (left) and Laureen Harper snuggle up to SJP (Images: George Pimentel)

While poring over photos from Sarah Jessica Parker’s recent appearance in Toronto, we were struck by an undeniable resemblance between first lady Laureen Harper (who knew she was allowed to watch Sex and the City?) and The Bay’s first lady of fashion, CEO Bonnie Brooks. The blond bobs, the LBDs, the come-hither cleavage…OK, fine, that’s just Brooks. But, boobs aside, the only discernible difference from photo to photo is the look on SJP’s (a.k.a. S.J.Wee) face. Could it be that Carrie Bradshaw’s not a fan of Stephen Harper’s stance on barley farmers? Nah, she’s probably just hungry.

The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Water buffalo cheese is the latest in artisinal dairy

Water buffalo have picky milking needs (Photo by Cathy, Sam, Max and Mai)

Two years ago, Martin Littkemann and Lori Smith were tired of milking cows, so the couple purchased 40 young water buffalo for their farm north of Trenton. Since then, the herd has grown to over 100, and they’ve launched Ontario Water Buffalo Co. The milk is sold to Vaughan’s Quality Cheese, where it’s turned into small-batch cheese and sold at Pusateri’s, Whole Foods and select Loblaws and Longo’s. It’s also been served at Pizzeria Libretto, Terroni and Buca.

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Six Ontario delicacies being served at the Olympics Pavilion

Peanut brittle from Sudbury's Sinfully Deelicious (Photo via sinfullydeelicious.com)

It’s no secret that corporate sponsorship is one of the most competitive sports at the Games, but a few independent brewers, bakers and farmers made the cut at the Ontario House in the Olympics Pavilion. Alongside the Coke, Minute Maid and Timothy’s coffee, there’s enough Ontario nosh to satisfy any locavore.

Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company: Lug Tread Ale
Based in eastern Ontario, Beau’s is more familiar to residents of Ottawa and Kingston—that is, until the family brewery made it into Ontario House. Its Lug Tread Ale, a lager-ale mix, is being served on tap and in a beer–and–Balderson cheddar soup.

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Fifth Town Cheese becomes greenest dairy in North America

A tomato salad with Fifth Town mozzarella (Photo by Renée Suen)

Back in 2006, when Toronto Life first wrote about Petra Cooper, a former publishing exec from Toronto who left a successful career in publishing to venture into cheese making, she was still making curds in her Summerhill condo. Since then, Cooper has relocated her Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co. to Prince Edward County, taken on a staff of 14, and become one of the province’s top cheese makers, winning numerous awards, including first place in the aged goat cheese category at the American Cheese Society Awards (the Superbowl of cheese competitions) last August.

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Legalized bees, finger limes come to North America, goodbye to Toronto’s floating restaurant

(Photo by <a href=• Honey-loving New Yorkers are abuzz with the news that the city’s health department plans to lift a 10-year-old ban on keeping rooftop beehives. Bees are currently prohibited along with such other “wild animals” as crocodiles and lions; however, health officials have determined that honeybees, unlike their man-eating counterparts, are rarely harmful. This is good news for the over 500 New Yorkers who already keep hives despite the ban, claiming they do so not just for the honey haul, but also because beekeeping helps pollinate garden flowers and is just a plain old relaxing hobby. [Gothamist]

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Grizzly bear bolognese, David Gest cooks with Viagra, Wendy’s is not so big in Japan

Get ready to hear a lot about Vancouver (Photo by PoYang_博仰)

Get ready to hear a lot about Vancouver (Photo by PoYang_博仰)

• With the Olympics opening in mere weeks, the gaze of the world has been turning to all things Vancouver, including its food scene. The L.A. Times scoped out the culinary offerings, pointing out that the city’s “cuisine scene is practically an Olympic Village unto itself.” Their finds range from the predictable (like Vij’s, an Indian food spot so popular even Martha Stewart had to queue for a table) to the quixotically Québécois (Café Salade de Fruits). Canada’s western city appears to offer a world of food options—almost as rich and broad as Toronto’s. But until we get the Olympics, perhaps no one will ever know. [L.A. Times]

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Barack burgers coming to Canada, locavorism under attack, the world’s best canned foods

Barack Obama, burger lover (Photo by art_es_anna)

Barack Obama, burger lover (Photo by art_es_anna)

• President Barack Obama’s favourite burger joint, Five Guys Burgers, is coming to Canada. OK, we don’t know for sure that it’s his favourite, but he made headlines by eating there in May, a few months after his wife did the same thing. Torontonians looking to emulate the coolest president of all time (sorry, Taft) will have some travelling to do—the burgery’s first international venture is opening in Medicine Hat. [National Post]

• The New York Times has gone gaga over the Obamas’ first state dinner, which was rife with locally grown vegetables and culturally diverse foods, proving that the president is not just a burger-gobbling Philistine (see above). The meatless dinner was also lauded by guests, which included Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and composer A.R. Rahman. [New York Times]

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The Dish

Pantry Raid

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Winter fresh: seven farmers’ markets that stay open through the snowy season

St. Lawrence Market bustles through the winter (Photo by )

St. Lawrence Market bustles through the winter (Photo by Ernesto Andrade)

Although falling leaves and impending frost have shuttered most of Toronto’s farmers’ markets, not all have packed up their stalls before the first snow. Below is a list of seven winter-ready markets supplying vegetables, organic meats and artisanal cheeses to foodies who want to eat local no matter what the weather.

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The Dish

Read All About It

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Coke buys off buskers, sky-bound sandwich shop, the truth behind sexy wine labels

(Photo by Annie Mole)

(Photo by Annie Mole)

• Would-be John Lennons will now be singing a different tune while being ignored by commuters on the London tube. Coca-Cola has sponsored the crooners to sing its classic festive jingle “Holidays Are Coming” to the 3.5 million travellers who use the transit system every day.  The song consists mainly of the refrain “holidays are coming,” repeated several times before closing with the Yuletide sendoff “Always Coca-Cola.” [L.A. Times]

• Is beer becoming more effete in an attempt to go after the wine market? Less for the nacho-munching, layabout everyman and more for those who want their brew to have “a gooseberry nose and a lemon meringue pie fruitiness”?  With studies showing that wine drinkers earn more money and are in better health than their suds-sipping counterparts, the National Post’s Nicholas Pashley asks whether it is nobler to burp or to spit. [National Post]

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