A nook, a castor and a monarch: The dining room at the Queen and Beaver (Photo by Karon Liu)
Jack Astor’s, Hard Rock Café, Milestones—the area around Yonge and Dundas Streets is hardly known for its authentic cuisine. And yet, it was here that Crush Wine Bar owner and English expat Jamieson Kerr chose to open his classic British gastropub. The new Elm Street spot combines the owner’s love of Canada and Britain (the pub’s name came from the two sides of a nickel) and shows a glimmer of hope for simulacra central.
“There’s nowhere in Toronto where I can really sit down and enjoy a pint,” says Kerr, who is hardly a stranger to the area, having attended Ryerson in the late ’80s. “The pubs all seem to be the same here, with pizza, curries, wings, a mix of everything.” Bored with it all, he hired chef Andrew Carter (Le Paradis, Herbs), who grew up in a small town outside Manchester, to create a traditional British menu replete with pub staples. Thick slices of black pudding are served with a poached egg and frisée tossed in a light mustard-shallot dressing ($15); an unabashedly fatty potted duck comes adorned with bread slices and wild cherries ($8); and, of course, there’s ale-battered haddock and chips ($17).
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