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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

All stories relating to cheese

The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Sloppy, drippy, salty, meaty, fruity, earthy and cheesy: Chris Nuttall-Smith takes on M:brgr’s $100 burger

The $100 brgr and its associated finery (Image: Colin Griffin, M:brgr)

I ate two Kobe beef patties for lunch yesterday, plus a couple slices of bacon, a wedge of foie gras, an ounce of gloopy brie, a slick of fig jam, a stack of really fabulous grilled pear slices, four asparagus spears, piave del vecchio cheese, garlic-roasted ham (effing delish), porcini mushrooms (I’m thinking they weren’t porcini, but that’s what the menu said), three white bread buns, an olive, and a side each of black truffle slices and honey truffle aïoli. All this cost me $100, plus tax and tip, and the burger—yes, it was a burger—was so tall that it took several tries and a near-miss nasal-labial injury to get an honest bite of the thing into my mouth.

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Good Stuff Cheap: 11 selections for a kick-ass and low-cost charcuterie plate


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The Dish

Pantry Raid

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Gourmet grocery store wants customers to buy shares, save business

Monforte's cheese-share program helped the company stay afloat (Image: Monforte)

It appears that the warm, fuzzy sentiments that usually come with supporting locavorism aren’t enough to ensure that Culinarium, a local-focused grocery store near Eglinton and Mount Pleasant, will stay afloat. Owner Kathleen Mackintosh is hoping a solid group of customers will invest in “dinner plate shares,The Star reports, in an effort to gather the $50,000 to $100,000 needed to keep the place open. The shares would entail an initial investment that would pay itself back, with a bit of interest, in the form of redeemable vouchers over the next three years. A $500 investment would yield $600 in groceries; a $1,000 investment would yield $1,305.

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The Dish

Food Porn

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Holiday Gift Guide: 13 edible present ideas

We prefer to pass the holiday season by eating our way through it and forcing loved ones to do the same. So we’ve come up with 13 inventive edible gifts (and not a mini-muffin basket in sight).

See our foodie gift guide now >>

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Introducing: Junction Fromagerie, the latest addition to the Junction foodscape

At Fromagerie, the latest culinary addition to the ever-evolving Junction foodscape, the wide-plank floors, exposed brick and enormous vintage glass windows lend an Old World vibe. Husband and wife team Jeff Brown and Jennifer Rashleigh take an equally continental approach to their stock: a carefully curated selection of house-churned butter, lush preserves of organic Niagara fruits, and rare wheels of small-batch cheeses, including the irresistibly rich and ripe Grey Owl goat milk cheese pictured here ($7.40 per 100 g). A slice of baguette, a bite of cheese and a dollop of apricot jam, and the Junction could almost pass for a Parisian arrondissement.

Junction Fromagerie, 3042 Dundas St. W., 647-344-8663.

The Dish

Crisper Confidential

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Inside the fridge of Anthony Walsh, Canoe’s executive chef

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The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the gooey Dungeness crab mac-and-cheese at Reds

Top toque Michael Steh, bronze medallist at Toronto’s annual Gold Medal Plates competition, is the culinary mastermind behind this haute mac-and-cheese. The bowl of al dente ditalini is enriched with moist shreds of crab and scallions, spiked with just enough grainy mustard to give it a nutty crunch. It’s all baked under a blistered layer of fontina. The final product is like a crab cake, only made better thanks to the naughty combination of the nostalgia of kiddie comfort food and a three-ounce pour of muscat blanc ($7).
Time:
56 minutes.
Cost:
$27, before tax and tip.
Reds,
77 Adelaide St. W., 416-862-7337, redsbistro.com.

The Dish

Neighbourhoods

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Bloor West Village Guide: our 20 favourite places between High Park and the Humber

Though solidly yuppified, this erstwhile eastern European enclave has held on to its tradition of thriving small businesses. Neighbours are genuinely chummy, moms trade intel on good nannies and bad teachers (between Pilates classes in the park), and the main drag offers almost everything.

Start the Bloor West Village tour »

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Longo’s. Take a tour of the new 48,000 square-foot supermarket that’s sure to feed the downtown grocery war

Upwardly mobile at the new Longo's (Image: Karon Liu)

The latest supermarket to open in the downtown core is a sleek, 48,000 square-foot megastore by Longo’s. The new spot is part of Maple Leaf Square—the spanking new sports-themed development beside the Air Canada Centre—and should make locals rejoice as their area, better known for tourists and expressways, takes one step closer to becoming a bona fide neighbourhood.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Bar Salumi, an aperitif bar by the owners of Local Kitchen

The interior of Bar Salumi. Volano meat slicer located near bottom left (Images: Jon Sufrin)

Inside Queen West’s new Bar Salumi—under hanging Berkshire prosciutto, garlands of hot peppers and a wild boar’s head—sits the Ferrari of all meat slicers: a Volano. In the hands of the right operator, the apparatus is supposed to make a perfect slice every time. Michael Sangregorio and Fabio Bondi, Bar Salumi’s owners, are hoping to become such operators. “It’s the most expensive thing in the entire bar,” says Sangregorio, who likens it to a Swiss watch. Bondi admits they’re trying to figure out how to use it to its full potential.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Toronto chefs serve up free sample dishes for Cheese Boutique tasting series

Now bargain-hunting foodies have something to look forward to that doesn’t end in -licious. Starting September 11, the Cheese Boutique is hosting an eight-week tasting series that will feature a different top Toronto chef each Saturday afternoon. From noon to 4 p.m., there will be complimentary sample dishes made by the featured chef using at least one of Cheese Boutique’s products. The chef lineup includes Café du Lac‘s Bernadette Calpito, the Black Hoof‘s Grant Van Gameren, Pizzeria Libretto‘s Rocco Agostino and O&B Café Grill‘s Markus Bestig. See the event’s Facebook page for complete details.

Cheese Boutique, 45 Ripley Ave. (at South Kingsway), 416-762-6292, cheeseboutique.com.

The Informer

From the Print Edition

8 Comments

Wild Thing: the story behind the Brick Works

The bucolic eco-paradise between Rosedale and the DVP almost never was. How big money and one ambitious entrepreneur remade the Brick Works

On May 29, the opening day of the Brick Works farmers’ market, I pedalled past the savvy people who had parked their cars illegally outside the Mount Pleasant Ceme­tery’s southern gate, knowing there would be no parking spots below, and through the Moore Park ravine. The air was cool and moist, the trees still. Then, the vista of the Don Valley opened up: the sun was shining on the pretty quarry garden, burning away the morning clouds and reflecting off the wetland ponds. I couldn’t yet see the market, but I could hear it: at 8 a.m., the site was already alive with happy chatter and the slow strum of “You Are My Sunshine” on guitar.

(Image: Jeremy R. Jansen)

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The Dish

Culinary Curiosities

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Feasting at the Ex: nine foods that stand out (for various hilarious reasons) at the Canadian National Exhibition

The Food Building beckons (Image: Ian Muttoo)

Since the kickoff of the 132nd edition of the Ex, deep-fried butter has dominated CNE-related headlines. There’s no doubt that it’s worth trying (we thought it tasted like a doughnut), but we felt there were other artery-clogging delights that were being overshadowed. We found eight other foods that equally piqued our interest, either because they’re the last thing we’d expect to see at the midway or because of their curious ability to make us feel full just by looking at them.

Here they are, with a quick thumbs-up or thumbs-down rating »

The Dish

Opening

13 Comments

Introducing: Brockton General, Dundas West’s new snack bar

The day's menu is written by the chef before service (Image: Karon Liu)

Adding to the influx of small, simple restaurants in the city is Dundas West’s week-old, low-key snack bar Brockton General (staff: three, dishwashers: zero). As the chef, Guy Rawlings, explains, opening a room that seats 30 means less bureaucratic finagling. Look at Nathan Isberg’s similar setup a few blocks down at The Atlantic.

Friends and first-time restaurateurs Pam Thomson and Brie Read found the space on Craigslist in June (it was previously a Portuguese sports bar) and hired Rawlings (Cowbell, Célestin) to man the small kitchen. Each night, Rawlings writes the menu, starring produce found at Downsview Park’s urban farm, on a roll of chart paper hung on a blank wall. On one visit, it included two appetizers and three mains—all under $20—in the nose-to-tail Cowbell tradition. Tagliatelle with wild boar’s head, anyone?

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The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Introducing: Nature’s Emporium, a 50,000-square-foot organic grocery utopia

(Image: Sian Richards)

Just walking past the juice bar and the pesticide-free garden centre and into the almost ridiculously beautiful produce wing of this 50,000-square-foot organic grocery utopia makes you feel healthier. Nature’s Emporium is a sumptuous testament to the new heights of our food obsessions. Signs detail provenance (the trout is smoked near Wiarton, and Picton’s Fifth Town supplies an army of flavoured chèvres), and a naturopath is on hand to offer advice. Two pastry chefs create gluten-free sweets; the zingy vanilla-orange cupcakes topped with rosettes of vegan icing are pure dairy-free decadence. At the raw bar, living pizzas (crisped slowly in a dehydration oven in the belief it preserves key enzymes) are stunning, especially the one with collard greens and cashew cheese. Luckily for kale-loving downtowners, this behemoth of health is scouting locations south of the 401.

Nature’s Emporium, 16655 Yonge St., Newmarket, 905-898-1844, naturesemporium.ca

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