The first thing regulars noticed were the chipper sky blue walls (we also spotted trendy new high-top tables and swanky lights at the bar), but the real shock likely came at the end of the meal. The bills are now about half of what they used to be.

The lower prices are part of the plan to keep customers coming back rather than just for anniversaries and birthdays. “We want to be a destination for foodies, for oenophiles, for the business community,” says Cattalo, “but also a place where people can drop by without having to commit to staying for three hours.” That’s why the tasting menu has been cut, at least for now.

Barry’s fresh pasta, which he prepares daily at 4 p.m., is the new focus. The most popular on opening night was the maltagliati with octopus, olives and capers (appetizer, $15; main course, $25), but Cattalo’s favourite is the pappardelle with braised pulled local rabbit and artichokes ($17, $27), inspired by a version his father made.

The pair plan to serve more wines by the glass but promise the selection of bottles won’t suffer. Cattalo and Barry have purchased the entire stock from previous owners David Lee and Yannick Bigoudan (now of Nota Bene) that Cattalo helped collect during his eight years as manager and sommelier.

While he’s excited at the prospect of adding some esoteric vintages, he says the champagne trolley has been retired. “Drinking champagne is for when times are good and the money is flowing,” says Cattalo. That won’t be anytime soon.

Bottle shock: corkage fees are falling all over Toronto (Photo by Quinn Dombrowski)

Along with prix-fixe menus and pink slip parties (we’re looking at you, Globe), reduced corkage fees have become a popular recession-era tactic for restaurants trying to attract diners. Ontario jumped on the BYOB bandwagon in January 2005, it has never had the same success as similar programs in Quebec. That is, until now.

“We’ve certainly seen a rise [in BYOB customers] in the last six months,” says Vertical’s Rob Montgomery, who lowered his charge from $45 to $25 about a month ago. “Guests want to spend money on food rather than wine.” He’s not the only one noticing a change. Dropping fees—which also help the house when one bottle begets another or if there’s a cocktail craving—have been on Patrick McMurray’s mind, too. The restaurateur was considering a corkage cutback at Starfish when we called; an hour later, he lowered his decanting cost from $30 to $20. As part of his democratic makeover, Carlo Cattalo is changing Splendido’s charge from $50 to $30; and Table 17 recently added a second no-charge BYOB night by popular demand. Other restos are extending successful corkage promotions. Lee and Madeline’s got hip to the craze for an April promotion: both Susur-owned spots are extending their $1 corkage to three days a week.

Here is our cheat sheet to the corkage discounts at top restaurants:

• Table 17: No corkage fee Sunday and Monday (BYOB Sunday and Monday only). 782 Queen St. E. (at Saulter St.), 416-519-1851.
• Paese: No corkage fee Sunday to Friday for first bottle; regular charge $25. 3827 Bathurst St. (at Wilson), 416-631-6585.
• Cava: No corkage fee Sunday, regular charge $30. 1560 Yonge St. (at Heath St. E.), 416-979-9918
• Centro: No corkage fee Monday to Wednesday; regular charge $35. 2472 Yonge St. (at Castlefield Ave.), 416-483-2211.
• Nota Bene: No corkage fee after 9 p.m.; regular charge $40. 180 Queen St. W. (at Simcoe St.), 416-977-6400.
• Crush Wine Bar: Corkage $1 on Mondays; regular charge $25. 455 King St. W. (at Spadina), 416-977-1234.
• Lee: Corkage $1 Monday to Wednesday; regular charge $30. 603 King St. W. (at Portland St.), 416-504-7867.
• Madeline’s: Corkage $1 Monday to Wednesday; regular charge $30. 601 King St. W. (at Portland St.), 416-603-2205.
• Starfish: Corkage $20. 100 Adelaide St. E. (at Jarvis St.), 416-366-7827.
• Gamelle: Corkage $25. 468 College St. (at Markham St.), 416-923-6254.
• Vertical: Corkage $25. 100 King St. W. (at Bay), First Canadian Place, 416-214-2252.
• Splendido: Corkage $30. 88 Harbord St. (at Spadina), 416-929-7788.

The new guard: Carlo Cattalo, left, and Victor Barry (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)

Splendido is changing hands. The star-powered duo that revived the powerhouse Harbord Street restaurant—proprietor Yannick Bigourdan and chef David Lee—announced this week that they will be handing the shop to general manager Carlo Cattalo and chef de cuisine Victor Barry. According to those involved, the transfer has been in the works for some time. Loyalists may rest easy, though: major evolution is envisioned for this summer, but Cattalo promises that “the spirit of Splendido has been passed on. It’s all about refreshing, not recreating.”

Local foodies are speculating that the change is recession related, but Cattalo claims that bad times have nothing to do with it. The shift in partnership was set in motion by the rise of talented chef Victor Barry and accelerated by the success of Nota Bene—Splendido’s more casual sibling on Queen Street West—which often kept Bigourdan and Lee off-site.

It’s not the first time that the business has been passed down this way. When Lee bought the house in 1991, he’d been part of then-owner Franco Prevedello’s circle at Centro. “Splendido is a place to grow up,” says Cattalo. “And Victor is a chef of 27. He’s reaching his prime.” Cattalo has also come of age since he started as manager and sommelier in 2001: “Seven years ago, I wasn’t ready to own a restaurant, but I am now. We’re the next generation.”

Bigourdan characterized the transaction as “a family deal, almost,” and with any familial legacy comes the challenge of asserting the next generation’s identity. Barry is conscious of the difficulty he faces in making his mark on the menu, despite his education (both he and Lee trained in England and are French influenced) and three years in the kitchen under Lee. Still, the young chef is confident that he’s already asserting his own style. “The progression of food here for the past year has had a lot to do with me,” he says. It’s no surprise that his menu will be seasonal, locally sourced and family farmed. “I shake hands with the farmers. I know them,” he says. He even gives growers seeds for ingredients uncommon in the area, like European espelette peppers. “The food will have my own fingerprint on it,” he says. We hope that’s just a metaphor.

As for ambience, the somewhat sober—some even say sombre—atmosphere of Splendido will also get a youthful refresh. The calm, special-occasion tenor will give way to a more relaxed feel. “We want to make it a bit more upbeat,” explains Cattalo, who hopes to keep his devoted clientele while appealing to a broader range of diners by emphasizing value. No takeover—no matter how amicable—would be complete without a facelift to reflect the new vision. Talks are still in progress, but the team is eyeing Ralph Giannone to renovate the space during a three-week period in early July. The designer’s emphasis on location is a good match for Cattalo’s aim of making the decor reflect the food and its chef-artist.

This revival could be the 20-year-old Splendido’s third coming. But Cattalo will be doing what he always does, what Bigourdan has been encouraging him to do since day one: “Carlo, he said, run this restaurant as if it’s your own.”