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The Informer

From the Print Edition

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Editor’s Letter (January 2012): how immigration and repatriation are making Toronto a more interesting city

Cities are often affected by political events outside their borders. In the mid-20th century, North American cities profited enormously from the arrival of well-educated immigrants fleeing the Nazis. The brilliant philosopher Hannah Arendt famously landed in Manhattan after escaping France in 1941. The pioneering modernist architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe moved to Chicago in 1937 after the Nazis deemed his work not German enough. Later, in 1956, when Soviet troops occupied Hungary, Canada admitted close to 40,000 Hungarian refugees, nearly doubling the Hungarian-Canadian population. Many intellectuals, writers and artists settled in Toronto, and the city’s café culture was born.

A decade or so later, Canada absorbed a tidal wave of draft dodgers—tens of thousands of young Americans, many of them well-educated, who came here to avoid fighting in Vietnam. For Toronto, it was a windfall. Dodgers proved to have a profound impact on the social makeup of the city, assuming leadership roles in our universities and cultural institutions as well as the corporate world. Andy Barrie, the former host of Metro Morning on CBC, exemplified the phenomenon: for 15 years on the show, he was a fierce Toronto patriot, more enthusiastic about his adopted city than many of us who were born here.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: The Ace, a classic Roncesvalles diner reborn

A traditional ’50s diner, reborn

For almost two decades, the Ace Chinese Restaurant on Roncesvalles has been shuttered. This spring, however, Maggie Ruhl (co-owner of the Dakota Tavern) and her partner, Greg Boggs, took possession of the space. The pair renamed it simply The Ace and have preserved the vintage 1950s aesthetic, but updated the menu with homestyle comfort food and French classics.

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The Dish

Caffeine High

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Tim Hortons to bring espresso to the 99 per cent

See you latte; Tim Hortons executive chairman, president and CEO Paul House (Image: CNW Group/Tim Hortons Inc.)

Tim Hortons, that Canadian bastion of par-baked doughnuts and extreme folksiness, announced yesterday that it will soon be making espresso-based coffees available in 2,500 locations across Canada. The drinks, which include lattes, cappuccinos and espressos, will be selling for significantly less than at their competitors: a 10-ounce latte is priced at just $2, compared to $2.95 for 8-ounces at Starbucks.

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The Informer

Ford Focus

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Rob Ford ducks CBC muckrakers, call the cops—and we feel surprisingly sympathetic (until we see the video) 

Did you hear the news about Rob Ford and the CBC interview? No, not that one. Not that one, either. Apparently, the mayor was recently ambushed outside his home by a This Hour Has 22 Minutes “news” team and, uh, he called 911. Of course, it’s easy to claim this as evidence of Ford’s evasion of the spotlight or his inability to relax and poke fun at himself. And maybe it is. After all, awkward 22 Minutes interviews are something of a Canadian tradition (along with self-deprecation and apologizing, natch). But the mayor has been the target of death threats recently, so we’re going to give him the benefit of the doubt on this one. But that doesn’t mean we’re not looking forward to tonight’s 22 Minutes episode. Because we are. (UPDATE: This sneak peek of the clip diminishes our sympathy. Also, Ford said it was dark. It wasn’t. Busted.) Read the entire story [CBC] »

The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Chris Nuttall-Smith on Keriwa and Bannock, two restaurants riffing on Canadian culinary traditions

Chef Joseph Bear Robe works the stoves at Keriwa, the city’s only Aboriginal restaurant

Chef Joseph Bear Robe works the stoves at Keriwa, the city’s only Aboriginal restaurant (Image: Emma McIntyre)

In the basement hallway of Keriwa Café, there’s a row of photographs showing an Ojibwa man dancing through Paris in feathered powwow regalia. From the Louvre to the Champs Élysées, the stomping, rattle-shaking man appears in hyper-saturated colour, while the City of Light behind him is rendered in muted sepia, as if to invoke a noble past. But in the final image, the dancer leans over. As you look more closely, you see that he’s fiddling with something, an iPod connected to a ghetto blaster—Sitting Bull meets the b-boy crew. “You think you know me?” the photo seems to say.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Keriwa Café, Queen West’s new outpost for Aboriginal cuisine


Chef Aaron Joseph Bear Robe at his brand new Parkdale restaurant (Image: Gizelle Lau)

Back in April, we told you about an upcoming Aboriginal-focused restaurant on Queen West. Last Wednesday, Keriwa Café threw open its doors to friendly and curious neighbours—like the chefs from nearby Parts and Labour—who stopped in to welcome the new kids on the block. 

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The Dish

TV Diner

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Top Chef Canada recap, episode 11: street meet

Rob Feenie with host Thea Andrews (Image: Food Network Canada/Insight Productions)

TOP CHEF CANADA
Season 1 | Episode 11

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From the opening moments of last night’s Top Chef Canada, we learned the following: Dale MacKay, the supremely arrogant self-confident Vancouver chef, actually has a soft side (he was missing his young son); Montreal-by-way-of Vancouver chef François Gagnon sleeps without his shirt on; Mercatto executive chef Rob Rossi likes to sleep in; and Connie DeSousa is feeling the pressure to win the competition for all the female chefs out there (about Grace’s Dustin Gallagher, we learned nothing). None of these micro-developments gave away who the winner and loser might be. After the jump, the twists and turns that brought us down to the final four.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Toronto Taste 2011: We get the latest news from top chefs and restaurateurs from Woodlot, Buca, Nota Bene, O&B and many more

Rob Gentile (Buca), David Lee (Nota Bene), Andrea Nicholson (Great Cooks on Eight), Paul Boehmer (Böhmer), Teo Paul (Union)

Two thousand of Toronto’s food lovers and makers gathered at the ROM on Sunday for the 21st edition of Toronto Taste. The annual fundraiser—which raises money for Second Harvest—saw more than 60 restaurants and 30 beverage purveyors offering their best to the guests. Burgers and tacos might have been the plats du jour, but new restaurant openings seemed to be the hottest item on the plates of many chefs and restaurateurs we spoke to. Here’s what we heard from Buca’s Rob Gentile, Woodlot’s David Haman, Scarpetta’s Scott Conant, Splendido’s Victor Barry, Top Chef Canada contestants Dustin Gallagher and Andrea Nicholson and many more. 

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The Hype

Prime Time

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Shield your ears, Canada: CBC is launching a new reality TV show with Canadians singing Canadian songs

A singing-focused reality TV show not called Canadian Idol is slated to hit the CBC airwaves this fall, and, well, it’s the ultimate CRTC wet dream. On Cover Me Canada, undiscovered musically inclined Canadians (we’re waiting before we use the word “talent” here) will sing songs every week in hopes of receiving a cash prize of $100,000, the opportunity to record an original single for distribution by Universal Music Canada and, according to the CBC, “the chance to win the hearts and minds of the country.” But here’s the catch: the contestants are limited to covering “iconic” Canadian tunes (read: top 40 hits from the late ’80s).

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The Dish

TV Diner

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Top Chef Canada recap, episode 5: 11 little piggies

A toast to us! (Image: Food Network Canada/Insight Productions)

TOP CHEF CANADA
Season 1 | Episode 5

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No next

Last night on Top Chef Canada, the competition moved into its second phase: some obvious underperformers have been eliminated, a leader pack is emerging, and the clowning around has died down. Tellingly, even when the contestants are shown in their underwear, they’ve got their game faces on. Here, our recap of an episode that contained everything from whole hogs to former military officers.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Six places to watch this Friday’s Royal Wedding in style

(Image: Kevin Knaulls)

The Royal Wedding is more than just another way for Canadians to express their fondness for the motherland; Kate and Will are also the hottest celebrity couple du jour. Hardcore wedding watchers of either stripe will want to secure their Friday morning plans in advance. To whit, here are six restaurants celebrating the Royal Wedding on April 29 in style.

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The Goods

Cuckoo for Coco

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Diet Coke teams up with Coco Rocha to promote Lagerfeld lifestyle

Coke party: Jeneil Williams, Coco Rocha and Heidi Mount (Image: Coca-Cola)

Coco Rocha has teamed up with fashion friend Karl Lagerfeld and Coca-Cola in a campaign to promote designer-sponsored, limited-edition Diet Coke bottles. Rumour has it that Lagerfeld once lost 90 pounds by consuming nothing but Diet Coke and steamed vegetables for over a year. The U.K.’s Daily Mail reports that he even has a butler to dispense the pop at his whim. We’d like to raise our own Lalique crystal goblet to Rocha and Lagerfeld, ’cause how unhealthy could it be to drink Diet Coke, as Lagerfeld notes, “every day and night?” We just hope Rocha is simply helping out her friend and lining her pockets, not reacting to allegations that she’s too fat to model. Coco, we love you just the way you are.

The Dish

Neighbourhoods

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Rosedale-Summerhill Guide: 23 need-to-know places along Yonge Street’s poshest stretch

Yonge Street’s poshest stretch, from Ramsden Park up to the Summerhill LCBO, has two strong suits: food and decor. Locals from the tree-lined side streets keep the shops going during the week, while the weekend brings floods of shoppers from further afield. Here, our list of 23 essential restaurants, food shops, furniture stores, clothing boutiques and beauty parlours along tony Toronto’s main drag. 

START THE ROSEDALE-SUMMERHILL TOUR »

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Q&A with Christine Cushing: the fearless chef on trends and the balance between prepared foods and cooking from scratch

Christine Cushing at Terroir earlier this month (Image: Renée Suen)

Christine Cushing is a face that most will recognize from TV shows like Fearless in the Kitchen and Christine Cushing Live. But Cushing has also done stints at some of Toronto’s most renowned kitchens (Four Seasons Hotel, Scaramouche), and more recently, she’s become the developer of a line of upscale food products, Christine Cushing’s. We caught up with Cushing, who has been promoting her latest discovery—a yet-to-be-named roasted red pepper paste—at the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association Show.

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The Hype

Awards Season

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Can-con heart warmer: Gonzales and Drake make nice at the Junos

Last weekend’s Juno Awards ceremony may not have been this season’s red carpet high point, but it seems as though it was the venue for some old-fashioned hatchet burying. Judging from his opening skit, Drake seems to have struck up a new friendship with his one-time detractor, oddball pianist and songwriter Gonzales (a.k.a. Chilly Gonzales a.k.a. Jason Beck). The two looked positively chummy onstage, performing a mash-up of Canadian hits during the hip-hop host’s opening monologue (see video, left).

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