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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Former Vertical chef Tawfik Shehata brings locavorism to new downtown bowling alley

Chef Tawfik Shehata was supposed to be taking it easy after he threw in the apron at Vertical, but the ambitious owners of The Ballroom—a new leisure complex opening in mid-December in the former Montana’s space on Richmond—made him an offer he couldn’t refuse. They want him to create a menu of local, sustainable, serious and seriously whimsical bowling alley food (yes, there will be actual bowling, too). We’re talking suburban classics, like hot dogs and burgers made from cuts of local beef, all ground in-house.

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The Dish

Aprons & Icons

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Marc Thuet closes Conviction for good, but has two new restaurants in the works

Biana Zorich and Marc Thuet at the opening of Conviction in 2009 (Image: Karon Liu)

Just over a year after opening Conviction—the third incarnation of their flagship restaurant—chef Marc Thuet and partner Biana Zorich have closed the restaurant for good. A lapsed lease has spelled the end of team Thuet’s presence on King Street West—and the end of an era, seeing as the couple was among the first to colonize what is now a hot restaurant strip. Now they’re turning their attention to places as close as Rosedale and as far away as Alsace. Anywhere, they say, but King West.

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The Goods

The Find

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Fresh-baked goods: a surprisingly sleek bread box

We didn’t expect to write about a bread box, let alone recommend one for its design, but here we are. In modern home accessories, there’s a fine line between something that looks sleek and modern, and something that looks like NASA might shoot it into space. The Jetson family came to mind when we saw this Guzzini bread box ($65) in Homefront the other day; we like its sleek lines, which would work well in most contemporary kitchens.

Also in black. Homefront, 371 Eglinton Ave. W., 416-488-3189.

The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Best of the City 2010: 14 picks for the top food in Toronto

Leaf fan: Matchbox Gardens grows rare and wonderful lettuces (Image: Jay Shuster)

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The Dish

Neighbourhoods

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The Dundas West Guide: our 21 favourite places between Ossington and Lansdowne

The strip of Dundas West between Ossington and Lansdowne has not been immune to the wild gentrification going on directly south of it. New restaurants, stores and bars have been cropping up for the past couple of years (Red Canoe, a swank Canadiana shop, opened two weeks ago), but there is a hesitation in the ’hood to turn Little Portugal and Brockton Village into the next Ossington. Incoming business owners make a point of blending in with the long-standing family-owned bakeries, soccer bars and pho stops. Even in new establishments, the decor has a thrift shop feel, and the prices cater to locals rather than destination diners. From east to west, here are our 21 favourite Dundas West spots for cheap eats, good music and authentic Portuguese cuisine.

The Dish

Opening

25 Comments

Introducing: Hub, Wallace-Emerson’s new indie coffee shop

Toronto’s wealth of new indie cafés has been a boon to community life, but mostly for neighbourhoods south of Bloor. That’s not the case with Hub, which opened last weekend on a residential stretch of Shaw Street near Dupont. The spot has already gained a following from the residents of Dovercourt-Wallace-Emerson-Junction who are thankful they no longer have to hop on their bikes to find a quick lunch, a latte or a cool escape from un-air-conditioned townhouses. At midday on a Wednesday, the place is bustling with moms with strollers and dads giving their daughters piggyback rides.

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The Dish

Food Porn

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A photographic tour of one of Toronto’s best brunch menus

A mere six months after opening, the brunch at the Hoof Café has become the city’s most coveted (witness the lineups snaking out the door). Co-owner Grant van Gameren and chef Geoff Hopgood combine the Hoof’s snout-to-tail philosophy with breakfast standards, creating a menu that is both playful and indulgent. Beautiful and inventive cocktails by co-owner and house mixologist Jen Agg round out meals that are satisfying to the eye as they are to the palate.

Here, our side show tour of the west end’s hottest brunch menu »

The Dish

Neighbourhoods

41 Comments

The Roncesvalles Guide: Our 25 favourite eating and shopping destinations along Parkdale’s Polish drag

Referred to as Little Poland by long-time residents and Roncey by the younger crowd, the Roncesvalles strip is one of the few neighbourhoods in the city that has earned its “hip” label without been invaded by raucous nightlifers. Progress keeps marching forward here, despite an ongoing road rehabilitation project that has claimed a few business causalities. We recommend spending a spring Saturday visiting these 25 spots.

(Thumbnail credit: 416 style)

The Dish

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: Sky Blue Sky Sandwich Company

A new Bloor West shop constructs dreamy, decadent sandwiches for $5

The place: The art, the names of the dishes and the soundtrack are all inspired by the indie rock band Wilco. Groupiedom isn’t a prerequisite to eating lunch here, though; the Koreatown walk-up is welcoming, and the sandwiches are fresh and cheap.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Famous frites not on menu at Jamie Kennedy’s Gilead

Jamie Kennedy (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)

Jamie Kennedy had a rough year in 2009: he sold Hank’s and the Wine Bar, his Gardiner Museum restaurant took a more casual route, and he was essentially on the brink of bankruptcy. “I expanded too quickly,” he told The Globe back in June. “I was exposed to costs far out of balance with my revenue.”

Now Kennedy is making his way back to the kitchen five nights a week at Gilead Bistro, where his study in economy hasn’t gone unnoticed by The Star’s Amy Pataki (nor has the less-than-packed dining room). For example, Pataki notes that the bistro charges $3 for bread. Also, Kennedy sells charcuterie and soups through the Healthy Butcher and turns chicken and beef bones into stock that can be bought at Rowe Farms.

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Liberty Village bread factory is relocating to Hamilton

Hamilton will smell like freshly baked bread (Photo by jytyl)

It’s been just over a month since we first reported on Canada Bread’s announcement that it will be closing three aging Toronto plants in 2013—including the massive Liberty Village bakery—and building a substantial factory somewhere in southwestern Ontario. Yesterday, the company announced that Hamilton will be the site of the new $100-million facility.

The 375,000-square-foot behemoth will occupy a piece of land on which Maple Leaf Foods, which owns 90 per cent of Canada Bread, wanted to build a pork-producing facility in 2005, which would have created 900 jobs. Neighbourhood opposition nixed Project Pork, but the city seems to be eager for the bread plant (which will employ up to 300), judging by how quickly the deal went through.

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The Goods

The Find

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What a slice: a gorgeous toaster that’s fit for the best artisanal bread

Lately, designers have been rethinking the toaster, with results ranging from the sublime (this minimalist, transparent version) to the ridiculous (a dot matrix throwback that singes designs into the bread), and covering everything in between (like this one, which looks like a cross between a sex toy and a dish rack). And though those models might not make it far from the drawing board, they got us wondering which toasters are worth the artisanal bread we put in them. After all, next to stoves and fridges, toasters are one of the most well-used (and often underperforming) kitchen appliances.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Five 2010 trends to watch: we ask Jamie Kennedy, Anthony Walsh, David Lee and other chefs what to look for in the coming year

Bespoke Bread from Marc Thuet (Photo by Renée Suen)

Bespoke bread from Marc Thuet (Photo by Renée Suen)

It’s no secret that 2009 was rough for restaurants—“It’s a year a lot of restaurateurs are happy to see go,” says C5’s Ted Corrado—but with the new year almost a month old, optimism is back on the table. We talked to some of the city’s top chefs about five culinary trends for the coming year.

1. Less Is More
Small, chef-run restaurants that are down-to-earth in both atmosphere and culinary style. Chef Jamie Kennedy, who’s focusing on the Gilead Bistro, a decidedly more casual restaurant than the Wine Bar he sold last fall, anticipates more “chef-driven” spots like J.P. Challet’s Ici Bistro and Grant van Gameren’s Black Hoof. Claudio Aprile, who’s working on his second restaurant, Origin, agrees: “I’m hoping that we see a lot more restaurants that are open kitchen, 30 seats, three line cooks.”

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Liberty Village to stop smelling like fresh-baked bread by 2013

Trucks load up at Canada Bread's Fraser-Street plant in Liberty Village (Photo by Google)

Trucks load up at Canada Bread's Fraser Street plant in Liberty Village (Photo by Google)

Canada Bread, the company that pumps out Dempster’s baked products, will be closing three of its plants in the GTA over the next three years, including the massive bakery located incongruously among Liberty Village’s art and design firms. Production at the Toronto locations is shifting to a new $100-million state-of-the-art factory—expected to be the largest bakery in the country—located in an as-yet undecided southwestern Ontario location. The decision will affect 435 employees, who will be given the opportunity to move to the new location or work at 13 plants remaining in the city. As for filling the void left by the soon-to-be-emptied Liberty Village plant, we have a radical suggestion: condos.

Canada Bread to close 3 GTA bakeries [Toronto Star]

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