Required Reading

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January 13, 2010 | 11:10 am

Canadian designer Mark Fast declines to give clothes to Lady Gaga, gives them to Topshop instead

Mark Fast at Ame in December (Photo by Karon Liu)

Just before the holidays, we predicted that Canadian designer Mark Fast would be thrust into the spotlight in 2010. Three short weeks later, we were proven right. Back then, we wondered whether the designer’s attention-grabbing show during London fashion week (it included plus-sized models) was a fluke, but since his quick trip to Toronto in December, he’s been making headlines all over the world. It seems the humble Manitoban has a knack for handling the press. Last week, he refused to lend his clothes to armoured style icon Lady Gaga (even though he loves “Bad Romance”), saying his designs are not about “fast food fashion.” That’s a head scratcher of a statement, since he launched a lower-priced diffusion line called Faster the same week and since there is talk about him designing a line for the speediest of fashion retailers, Topshop (also rumoured to be opening in Toronto in the near future).

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January 8, 2010 | 12:15 pm

10 fashionable members of Toronto’s Twitterati

Toronto designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran (Photo by Jenna Marie Wakani)

For people who have been living under a rock for the past year, there’s a social networking site called Twitter, and it provides a window into the lives of strangers and celebrities, 140 characters at a time. Though most tweets are as exciting as a grey V-neck sweater, members of Toronto’s fashion industry keep things vibrant with glimpses into their lives beyond the runway, in some cases giving the heads-up on upcoming sales. Here are 10 to follow in 2010.

Who: Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong of Greta Constantine
Topics covered: Upcoming shows, collection updates, cute updates from the office
Recent tweet: Everyone in the studio have become yoga maniacs! Soon we’ll be designing Greta Constantine yoga mats. Check them out at 889 Yonge
Bonus: Tweets on upcoming sample sales
Follow: @gretconstantine

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January 8, 2010 | 10:42 am

Holt Renfrew replaces president with Canadian Tire exec

The Bloor Street Holt Renfrew flagship (Photo by Mike Manalang)

What do high-end fashion and auto parts have in common? Mark Derbyshire. The man who was once a marketing whiz for Canadian Tire is the new president of Holt Renfrew, Canada’s biggest luxury retailer. Derbyshire has been with Wittington Fashion Retail Group, Holts’ parent company, for six years as the head of human resources. He replaces outgoing president Caryn Lerner, a veteran of the fashion industry (including stints at Prada and Gucci) who held the position for five years. Lerner will continue as an independent consultant to Wittington.

The sudden announcement has prompted speculation about the company’s profitability in 2009. “I don’t think their results have been spectacular,” retail consultant Maureen Atkinson told the Star. “I think that’s been an issue and a challenge. I don’t think it’s her. I think it is what it is. The economy. I think there’s a whole bunch of reasons why they’re not really doing well.” But the retailer denies rumours of bad performance in 2009 and gave no reason for Lerner’s untimely sacking.

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January 7, 2010 | 11:42 am

Lady Gaga and Rufus Wainwright join forces, designers like big butts, tighty whiteys are cool again

Say goodbye to bold briefs (Photo by Nick Starr)

• There are wedding rumours yet again after Marc Jacobs and boyfriend Lorenzo Martone were photographed in St. Barts in front of a cake topped with miniature Jacobs and Martone figurines. Reps have denied the nuptials, saying the cake and party were in celebration of their engagement. The couple is apparently planning a March wedding, and judging by Jacobs’ penchant for grabbing headlines, it won’t be a quiet affair. [Huffington Post]

• Following the lead of such labels as Missoni and Versace, Giorgio Armani will open his first hotel in the recently opened Burj Dubai Tower, newly crowned as the world’s tallest building, on March 18. Armani plans to open other hotels in Milan, Marrakesh, Egypt, New York, Tokyo, Shanghai and London. Surely this period of rapid expansion will work wonders for Armani and co., as it has for Dubai itself. [Vogue]

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December 18, 2009 | 12:01 pm

Toronto sex shop and MP Carolyn Bennett fight for eco-friendly orgasms

Eco-orgasm crusader Carolyn Bennett (Photo by Jerad Gallinger)

“Let the warm waves of eco-friendly orgasms curl your toes.” That’s the greeting message on ecosex.ca, the on-line home of Toronto sex shop Red Tent Sisters. The titular sisters, Amy and Kim Sedgwick, opened the Danforth and Pape store in 2007, stocking it with such environmentally friendly products as organic lubricant and vegan condoms. Is there any industry that Al Gore hasn’t touched?

Recently, the Sedgwicks wrote to Toronto Liberal MP (and physician) Carolyn Bennett, outlining the potentially dangerous chemicals that are found in most sex toys on the Canadian market. Bennett has responded with a letter to the minister of health, Leona Aglukkaq, outlining the “urgent need for responsible regulation in the adult toy industry in Canada.” Plastics like bisphenol-A and chemicals like phthalates are banned in baby products but not in adult toys.

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December 17, 2009 | 12:57 pm

The Necky is the new Snuggie, André Leon Talley to judge ANTM, Rachel McAdams’s Vogue cover, Dov Charney strikes again

Who wouldn't take beauty advice from Dov Charney? (Photo by Legalize LA)

• Rachel McAdams is on the cover of January’s Vogue, wearing floral print, a cardigan and a terrible hairdo. She’s a Toronto girl, so we’re full of pride, especially because Vogue covers tend to be reserved for the same few American and British celebs. But we can’t get over that hair, which has been described as Kate Gosselin–esque, and that’s never a good thing. [Lainey Gossip]

• Dov Charney is at it again. The mustachioed CEO of American Apparel is apparently telling staffers how to tweeze their brows. In an e-mail sent to employees, Charney attached a picture of a female with over-plucked eyebrows (in an AA store, no less) captioned “No”; also attached was a shot of the apparently more ideal Brooke Shields eyebrows, captioned with a “Yes.” One of the company’s employees is appalled at how the e-mail was directed at women, but really, beauty tips are pretty harmless compared to Charney’s other alleged exploits. [Jezebel]

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December 14, 2009 | 12:14 pm

The year in fashion: a roundup of 2009 retrospectives

Drew Barrymore's "daring" TIFF dress (Photo by James Helmer)

• Judith Thomson takes a look at the most memorable fashion moments of the Obama era. The highlights: the cardi-skirt combo Michelle Obama wore to meet the Queen, Aretha Franklin’s bowed inauguration hat and Sarah Palin’s glasses. [The New Yorker]

• The fall of Eatons, the rise of fashion week, the influx of starchitecture and seven other noteworthy Toronto design moments of the oughts. [Now]

• Topping People‘s snoozy best-dressed list is Kate Winslet, who wins for her body-conscious red carpet looks. Michelle Obama scored the award for most accessible style, and Cameron Diaz has the year’s best jeans. [People]

• Celebrity style bible In Style has put together a slide show of the most daring dresses of the year. None of the looks come close to J. Lo’s plunging Versace gown from 2000, but one of our favourite TIFF outfits—Drew Barrymore’s Alexander McQueen tattoo dress—made the cut, though we’d hardly call it risky. Barrymore’s dye job, on the other hand… [In Style]

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December 10, 2009 | 2:05 pm

Collagen for feet, short-lived trends of the 2000s, Audrey Hepburn’s clothes sell for $437,800

Killer heels? Collagen is being used to pad feet (Photo by Valeyoshino)

• A collection of Audrey Hepburn’s couture dresses and accessories was auctioned off in London, generating more than £270,000 (about $437,800). The centrepiece, a Chantilly lace cocktail gown, was estimated at £20,000, but sold for an astonishing £60,000. The pieces are all lust-worthy but are perhaps better suited to a mannequin than a real person. In order to fit into the outfits, the wearer must match Hepburn’s diminutive 32-22-34 frame. [Daily Mail]

• We usually associate opera stars with barrel-chested men and Rubenesque women. But Miuccia Prada, who is designing costumes for the Metropolitan Opera’s spring production of Attila, disagrees. Apparently, Prada took one look at the supernumeraries (non-singing actors and extras) and said, “I cannot clothe them! I need models!” The Met is now conducting model castings, despite those who insist supernumerary work is about how you move, not how you look. Unfortunately, good models are experts at both. [Paper]

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December 7, 2009 | 1:33 pm

Jeanne Beker can’t afford to shop at the Bay’s luxury department

Jeanne Beker is almost the Canadian answer to Anna Wintour: she’s one of the most recognizable faces in our fashion industry, is on a first-name basis with designers and has thick bangs, but, unlike Wintour, Beker is friendly and open. Case in point, the grand dame of Fashion Television gave a lengthy interview to Kelly Anderson of blogTO.com, in which she divulged three (somewhat) juicy details about her shopping habits.

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December 3, 2009 | 2:15 pm

Hermès accused of hoarding alligator skins, Karl Lagerfeld creates SpongeBob doll, Tom Ford disses Jason Reitman

Tom Ford at the TIFF premiere of A Single Man (Photo by Karon Liu)

• Canadian model Coco Rocha announced last week that she’s launching her own fashion line. No details yet, but her sketches include high-waisted skinny jeans, ankle-skimming pants, and a shirt, skirt and cape. We’re not impressed with the initial designs, but if her line comes out anything like Kate Moss for Topshop (we hope, coming to The Bay), we won’t complain. [Oh So Coco]

• SpongeBob SquarePants got a makeover courtesy of Karl Lagerfeld, who moulded the cartoon creature into a golden mini-Karl, complete with sunglasses, fingerless gloves, shirt and tie. The figurine fetched 1,000 euros at a World Wildlife Fund charity auction. Lagerfeld has already designed a teddy bear in his image, but fans shouldn’t wait for a Karl doll. The designer told W magazine, “Nothing scares me more than people with some doll collection. Frightening.” [WWD]

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November 26, 2009 | 3:29 pm

Christian Louboutin calls his customers ‘sluttish,’ Demi Moore denies Photoshop work, Toronto toy company takes on Barbie

The scandalous Demi Moore W cover

• Christian Louboutin, the man who made six-inch heels the norm, describes his shoes as tarty, saying women sometimes buy them to feel more “sluttish.” These customers include prostitutes, who the designer says wear his shoes because they’re “super-chic.” When that inevitable Pretty Woman remake is shot, Louboutin would be the perfect candidate to supply those “super-chic” thigh-high vinyl boots Julia Roberts wore. [The Times]

• Kate Moss is at it again. This time, the British model is being chastised for admitting that she tells herself that “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels,” a mantra frequently touted on pro–eating disorder Web sites. Sure, it was an incredibly stupid thing to say, but cut her some slack. She’s a well-documented cocaine user who used to date Pete Doherty. Clearly, her judgment wasn’t too sound to begin with. [BBC]

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November 20, 2009 | 9:00 am

Brad and Angelina are jewellery designers, MC Hammer won’t discuss harem pants, man-gagement rings are the next wedding trend

MC Hammer wouldn't be caught in these puppies (Photo by Idhren)

• Zac Posen, beloved by stars for his red carpet numbers, is reaching out to Lower East Siders (read: hipsters) with Z Spoke, a more affordable line of clothes to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue this spring. The clothes, which Posen describes as “minimalist and utilitarian,” are priced from $78 to $675, a steal compared to his namesake line, where a gown can fetch $12,000. With any luck, Z Spoke will be available on Saks’ Web site, which ships to Canada. [WWD]

• Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have designed a collection for the famed British jeweller Asprey. The proceeds from the collection—mainly serpentine items, like coiled snake rings and necklaces—will be donated to Education Partnership for Children of Conflict, a charity that works to educate youth war victims. Jolie picked the snaky theme because she sees serpents as protectors; we bet Jennifer Aniston can think of a different reason. [BBC]

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November 13, 2009 | 9:00 am

Miss J. has a son, the Serena cut is the new Rachel, Jimmy Choo for H&M hits Toronto

Is it the rainbow of colours that makes Crocs so enticing? Don't ask us (Photo by Rupert Ganzer)

• The Serena is the new Rachel. Stylists across New York are being inundated with requests for Blake Lively’s tousled tresses. One salon owner in Manhattan calls it “aspirational hair” and offers extensions to get the look for $1,200 to $1,500. Don’t blow the mortgage payment yet: another stylist says that the look flatters only tall, slim women. [New York Times]

• Burberry fêted its flagship Toronto store on Bloor Street last week with a gala that drew celebs Ali Larter (of Heroes and Varsity Blues fame), as well as the inseparable After Show duo Dan Levy and Jessi Cruickshank. Meanwhile, Prince Charles and Camilla were partying with Dalton McGuinty at the Carlu, mere blocks away. Too bad the royal couple didn’t pop into the storied British store to lend star power to the guest list. [WWD]

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November 6, 2009 | 9:00 am

Lady Gaga named top style maker, Roots releases its Olympics line, fate of Gucci film in peril

Miley Cyrus: teeny bopper slash fashion designer (Photo by Mike Schmid)

• Roots may have lost the bid to be the official Olympics clothier (that honour went to The Bay), but the brand is still capitalizing on the upcoming games with its Canada collection. The clothes and accessories are simple, boring, even, with Canadian flags and Cs emblazoned on them. We expect more from Roots—after all, the company made berets popular again. [Toronto Star]

• London H&M stores will hand out wristbands to the first 160 people in line to clamour for the Jimmy Choo diffusion line of clothing and accessories. The wristbands are designed to calm the chaos that inevitably ensues whenever a diffusion line hits the stores. Good luck, H&M. We were at the Yonge and Dundas location when the Matthew Williamson collection was released and were nearly trampled. Not that we wouldn’t claw our way to the new Choo pieces. [The Telegraph]

• We wanted to hate Miley Cyrus’ collaboration with designer Max Azria, we really did. But her collection, which is sold at Wal-Mart, includes some great pieces (like ruffle-neck chiffon shirts and a grey bomber jacket) at unbelievable prices—nothing is over $20 U.S. No word yet on whether the collaboration will come to Canadian stores. [Lucky]

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October 30, 2009 | 10:52 am

Lululemon accused of not carrying bigger sizes, Prada wants men in skirts, not even Vogue editors can walk in Alexander McQueen’s shoes

Footwear from Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2010 show

• While some are praising Toronto fashion week as a bona-fide fashion event, we hear the work’s not over yet. David Graham applauds the designers snagged by the Fashion Design Council of Canada but thinks next year, the FDCC needs more A-list talent. (Well, duh.) Graham wants to see Toronto phenoms Jeremy Laing, Lida Baday and Michael Kale in the tents, too. [Toronto Star]

• Does Lululemon cater only to skinny yogis? One shopper complains that a Lulu employee told her the shop would be discontinuing size 12 outfits because bigger sizes are not within the company’s target demographic of young, high-income, childless women. [National Post]

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