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Toronto Life - The Dish

The latest restaurant buzz, including what’s opening, what’s closing, and where to eat, drink and be seen

Weekly Lunch Pick

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Winterlicious Lunch Pick: a power lunch for less at Reds

Our main course: roasted sea scallops with a sweet apple-vanilla chutney (Image: Andrew Brudz)

At Reds, the 12-year-old Financial District staple of the power lunch crowd, award-winning chef Michael Steh has created an uncommonly attractive Winterlicious lunch menu ($20). Unlike so many, which require careful planning to weed out the duds, the prix fixe offerings here feel practically fool-proof (in addition to our selections, high praise goes to the spinach salad with duck breast and the bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin). We start with the ham hock and pig’s head terrine, which is formed into a patty, deep-fried and served warm. It’s smoky, salty and crispy, with a sweet apple and pear sauce that benefits from the coarse texture of stone-crushed mustard seeds. We suggest tiny bites; you’ll want to savour this dish. Next up, roasted sea scallops with a sweet apple-vanilla chutney. The plump bivalves arrive perfectly blackened on the outside and are served on a bed of creamy pumpkin risotto, with the added crunch of salt-candied pumpkin seeds. For dessert, the panna cotta tasting is an adorable collection of three flavours: strawberry with white chocolate–covered rice crisps; tart lemon with meringue; and rich Nutella with crushed hazelnuts. You’ll want to hurry up and get here before the prices soar back after February 9.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the sustainable trout at Pangaea

Velouté with spot prawns; Ocean Wise steelhead (Image: Renée Suen)

Although Winterlicious kicked off last Friday (see our 61 best bets), it’s still possible to secure a seat at one of the city’s top tables, especially if it’s just outside the downtown core. Pangaea’s open dining room typically caters to a well-heeled Yorkville crowd (with prices to match), but during the culinary fest, the restaurant offers a steal of a three-course prix fixe for $20 (we stopped by just before the festival commenced).

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the ever-changing offerings at L-Eat Express

L-Eat’s roasted turkey sandwich (Image: Andrew Brudz)

Despite the one per cent connotation of its name (say it out loud), L-Eat Express offers fresh lunch selections priced for the other 99. And while it’s certainly fast, there’s plenty of space to sit down and take your time in the charming dining room. Owner Tony Loschiavo (also of Paese, whose second location is a few blocks away) began L-Eat Catering in North York over 20 years ago, first as a private and corporate event caterer (chances are you’ve enjoyed his fare before).

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: an escape from winter at Yorkville’s Mideastro

The seafood couscous at Mideastro (Image: Renée Suen)

With Toronto’s wet, sloppy winter weather setting in, it’s nice to be reminded of warmer climes. The five-month-old Yorkville location of Mideastro does just that with its sophisticated take on Mediterranean and Israeli cuisine. It’s a particularly good bet at lunchtime, when smaller versions of many favourites from the dinner menu are available at a fraction of the cost.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the fajita bar at Carnicero’s, St. Lawrence Market’s newest butcher shop

The chicken fajita at Carnicero’s (Image: Andrew Brudz)

Late last year, Witteveen Meats manager Brad Noonan took over the Manos Meats stand down the hall at St. Lawrence Market, and, after giving the place a revamp, renamed it Carnicero’s (Spanish for butcher). The new space features 60 feet of gleaming display space and a custom-made fajita bar, perfect for post-holiday culinary budgets and diets (and for grabbing something for dinner while you’re grabbing something for lunch).

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Year in Review: each of 2011’s weekly lunch picks, ranked

Trying to choose a selection of our favourite lunch picks from the last year proved too much like choosing a selection of our favourite children. So instead we present a complete year of lunch picks, ranked by price, from a humble porchetta sandwich (a reasonable $6.75) to a somewhat less humble five-course feast (treat yourself for $100).

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: a pair of Asian snacks at Banh Mi Boys

The kalbi taco and five-spice pork belly bao at Banh Mi Boys (Images: Renée Suen)

After days of holiday excess, cheap, hearty and delicious food is just what’s called for. Banh Mi Boys, opened by brothers and first-time restaurateurs David, Peter and Phil Chau, serves just that, with a menu that fuses Vietnamese, North American and Korean flavours into surprisingly coherent snacks.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: spicy chicken manakeesh across from the Eaton Centre

Paramount’s manakeesh, a sort of Lebanese pizza

Mohamad Fakih’s family has run Paramount for three generations, starting in 1918. With two locations in Mississauga and another in Thornhill, the Middle Eastern restaurant finally expanded into Toronto proper with a spot across from the Eaton Centre late last year. While the downstairs can feel like a boisterous cafeteria, the upstairs is almost serene, with the exposed bricks and beams under the towering ceiling of the heritage building (for years it housed Superior Restaurant).

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: a weekday feast for two at Chinatown’s newest dim sum restaurant

(Images: Renée Suen)

Up on the third floor of an old Chinese mall on the south side of Dundas sits Dim Sum King, a new Chinatown spot that serves excellent renditions of steamed, fried, boiled, baked and braised classics at reasonable prices. The large, open room is filled with the usual cacophony of chopsticks clicking against dishes and waiters circulating around linen-covered tables with old-school trolleys. Although daily midday specials are available for $5.99, the better deal on weekday lunches is to order by the plate, since all sizes—small, medium and large—go for $2.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the refined decadence of Splendido’s holiday tasting menu

The foie gras appetizer in Splendido’s luxurious European Retreat lunch tasting menu (Image: Matthew Fox)

December’s here, and that means cold weather and holiday decadence. Splendido, Harbord Street’s temple of special-occasion dining, has responded in its usual fashion: the $75 five-course European Retreat lunch special, available every Friday (and certain Thursdays) for the rest of the month. The pace and flavours of this marathon tasting menu are inspired by the Mediterranean, but the ease and luxury of the meal reflect chef Victor Barry’s attention to detail. 

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: classic American comfort food out of a downtown truck

(Image: Andrew Brudz)

Spiros Drossos, the chatty co-owner of the Food Cabbie, serves up good ol’-fashioned American comfort food from his shiny new food truck, currently planted at Queen and Mutual. There’s certainly nothing fancy about it, and that’s the point: it’s fast, affordable and very satisfying, and close enough to the Eaton Centre for holiday shoppers looking for sustenance and a break from the crush.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: a perfectly elegant sandwich at a perfectly elegant Summerhill pastry shop

The daily sandwich and a flaky banana-coconut croissant at Nadège (Image: Renée Suen)

Sandwiched between Summerhill’s five thieves, Nadège Nourian’s second outlet is a jewel box of pretty confections and carefully constructed pastries. The midday crowds, however, line up for the freshly made and affordable gourmet sandwiches stacked in the shop’s glass display cases. Seasonal fruits and vegetables, along with fine meats and cheeses, spill out from halved homemade croissants or slices of spongy, loose-crumbed bread.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: a hearty soup and sandwich in Corktown

The chicken galantine sandwich and curried pumpkin purée soup at Gilead Café (Image: Andrew Brudz)

With Jamie Kennedy’s withdrawal from the Wine Bar and Hank’s, and his Gardiner Museum restaurant turned into an event and catering space, the Gilead Café and Bistro is now the best place to go for his French-inflected locavore cuisine. Inside, the trademark wall of colourful preserved fruit and vegetables makes a cozy spot for a fall lunch.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: a delicate rainbow trout at a Spadina Avenue café

At noon, a queue snakes out from the mezzanine barista bar and kitchen at Sense Appeal, the King and Spadina café with its own director of coffee extraction. In addition to excellent coffee and an array of freshly made sandwiches, it’s the creative hot entrees, available at lunchtime on weekdays, that are drawing the crowds.

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Weekly Lunch Pick

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Weekly Lunch Pick: the exquisite exohico at Estiatorio Volos

The flaky beef and spinach pie at Estiatorio Volos (Image: Andrew Brudz)

Torontonians who work downtown rarely have the luxury of skipping over to the Danforth to satisfy a lunchtime craving for Greek food. The recent launch of Estiatorio Volos, however, means you can find uncommonly elevated Greek fare right in financial district. The restaurant, which captures some of the seaside ambiance of its namesake coastal city, is run by Andreas Antoniou, who took over his father’s old space, Mediterra.

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