The cozy Elm Street restaurant serves one of the more exceptional lunch menus to be had during Winterlicious

(Photos by Matthew Fox)

The place: Paint by numbers neo-Italian, complete with wrought iron filigree, faux-aged walls, stone floors and opera music. On this snowy afternoon, the crackling hearth is wholly welcome. The staff is formal yet friendly; like an Italian uncle, our waiter isn’t afraid to give us a gentle ribbing.

The crowd: A few business lunchers looking for a quiet place to talk mergers, acquisitions and wine.

The deal: Although we visit before Winterlicious, the menu is nearly the same, aside from regular prices. (Winterlicious lunch includes appetizer, main and dessert for $25, plus tax and gratuities.) Appetizers include braised leek and potato soup ($10) and organic greens with chickpeas and walnuts ($11). Mains range from hearty to healthy, like a burger steak with french fries and house-made ketchup ($19), and poached salmon ($25).

The dish: An out-of-this-world arugula salad includes hefty slabs of buffalo mozzarella, vibrant roasted golden beets, crisp salsify and a tart citrus emulsion ($16)—all balanced with a little fleur de sel. Our main of wild boar pizza ($19) on a thin, crunchy crust with tomato, fontina cheese and caramelized onions is perfectly rich but too filling for lunch (leftovers hold their own as a late-day office snack). Dessert is a delicate mille feuille with crumbly meringue wafers layered with fresh strawberries.

The time: 85 minutes on a quiet afternoon, but Winterlicious could bring delays or quick turnover.

The cost: $60, including tax and tip.

Oro, 45 Elm St. (at Bay St.), 416-597-0155, ororestaurant.com.

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