Hard times, great coffee (Photo by Jim U)
Is it just us, or are independent coffee shops becoming as common as month-long Boxing Day sales? We counted a minimum of 10 newbies that have opened around town in the past six months. For east enders, there’s Hank’s, Simple and Broadview Espresso, while the west is now home to Zoots, Belly, White Squirrel and Lit. Moroco Chocolat is somewhere in between, and Isabella’s is soon to open in Greektown. For Toronto’s newest kids on the block, the barista business might just be recession-proof—can’t say the same for Starbucks. No matter how bad times get, some things are sacred: we’ll forgo the Fendi and avoid the Vuitton, but we’ll still loosen our belts for a good brew and a fresh croissant. Jamie Kennedy, who opened the café Hank’s last year and is always near the top of the city’s food chain, says that it is full steam ahead for coffee houses. “Let’s face it—there’s a vibrant café culture in Toronto, and no recession is going to stop that. The big-buck dining out will take a hit, but a coffee and a croissant is a whole other ball game.”
And it’s not just the recession. According to Kennedy, Torontonians are embracing alternatives to designer dining. Sure, urbanites will always be eager for atmosphere, but they no longer need white-linen tablecloths to feel well fed. The wealth of new coffee houses may be part of a shift in the city’s dining infrastructure. Snack-sized portions—and prices—are easier to swallow. Raymond Emes dubbed mornings at his new Roncesvalles-area spot, Balluchon, a “latte-art-free-zone,” for those who want the morning pick-me-up without the frills. Fancy extras are off the menu for 2009; café owners Mike Cullen of Broadview Espresso and Joe Angellotti of Lit have noticed an increase in drip coffee sales and a drop in espresso orders. Still, both say their new cafés enjoy steady business, with no sign of decline.
Perhaps this success can be credited to that other thing that Toronto loves about its café culture—community. Artist Melanie Janisse and her actor husband opened Zoots in the dire straits of December. But she’s not shaken; every day, she serves to a full house of laptop-toting writers and artists seeking solidarity in the economic storm. It’s simple: the so-called “latte factor” may lead us to downsize our drinks, but we still buy coffee and its accoutrements in good company. After all, says Simple’s Racquel Youtzy of Leslieville, “coffee is kind of like booze.” And apparently, we just can’t quit the sauce.
• Balluchon, 221 Sorauren Ave., 416-516-8980
• Belly, 1574 Queen St. W., 416-567-7394
• Broadview Espresso, 817 Broadview Ave., 416-553-3833, broadviewespresso.com
• Hank’s, 9.5 Church St., 416-362-1957
• Isabella’s (opens early February), 147 Danforth Ave., 905-723-8448, www.isabellas.ca
• Lit, 221 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-538-9700, litespressobar.com
• Moroco Chocolat, 99 Yorkville Ave., 416-961-2202, www.morocochocolat.com
• Simple, 1303 Queen St. E., 416-466-2345
• White Squirrel, 907 Queen St. W., 647-428-4478
• Zoots, 1438 Dundas St. W., 416-536-2233
“Fancy extras” like…steamed milk?
Huh?
This is faux-proletariat posturing on the retailer’s part.
But whatever works to get that extra share of thinning wallet in a post-Fendi world, I guess.
February 6, 2009 at 12:13 am | by lizThanks for the list. It would be great in future posts (or as an update) if you could include which roasters these cafes are using.
February 6, 2009 at 1:02 pm | by Christiana healthy dose of chocolate is what the world needs. and a latte never hurt anyone. i’m already maping out my route.
February 6, 2009 at 11:43 pm | by ziaTry Xococava for the best coffee and the best truffles and other amazing confections, Delisle Court, Yonge and St. Clair
February 8, 2009 at 9:58 pm | by City GirlLit has got to be the best coffee in Toronto, hands down!
February 9, 2009 at 3:25 pm | by Matthew SLit is amazing! The staff is super friendly, the food is delicious (especially the soups), and the interior design is beautiful.
February 12, 2009 at 11:00 am | by JennyI was in a little place in Napanee Ontario called Coffee Cravings… This place was amazing, one of the best lattes I have ever had – and yes you read it right, Napanee! If you are ever travelling that way you should stop in. It is on the corner of dundas and john.
February 12, 2009 at 11:16 am | by WayneWhat about Ezra’s Pound???
http://ezraspound.com/
February 12, 2009 at 11:51 am | by banksiCoffee Cravings has a delicious selection of teas as well. They have wireless access too – highly coveted in Napanee! A comfortable, friendly and tasty coffeeshop.
February 12, 2009 at 1:22 pm | by KateCoffeeholic (922 Eglinton West in Toronto) deserves a mention. Custom roasted beans and hand-dripped coffee…what more can you ask for!
February 12, 2009 at 10:22 pm | by Karen[...] Ladies, stop feeling guilty about frequenting Toronto’s slew of new cafés. Spanish and American researchers have found that coffee drinking can lower a woman’s risk of [...]
February 18, 2009 at 8:09 am | by Gordon Ramsay’s unfavourable reviews, eating on $50 a week, coffee addictions justified | Read All About It | torontolife.com/dailyWhite Squirrel has great coffee and the baked goods are AMAZING! Try the brownies.
March 4, 2009 at 9:31 pm | by Milo[...] under one roof. And it seems that other shops are doing their own cost-benefit analysis. Newcomer Zoots café is already making news for its creative combination of great coffee and clothes. In a room [...]
March 13, 2009 at 10:16 am | by Schizophrenic shops: Creative trend or a sign of the (bad) times? | Rumours & Rumblings | torontolife.com/dailyI clicked on the “Latte Factor” link and it calculates how much you could save by not buying lattes and instead investing that money “at a rate of 10% annual return”. In today’s market, where that sort of return is a hazy memory, lattes suddenly look like a wise investment. We may be broke but at least we’re awake!
By the way, Bisogno at King E and Sherbourne is one of the city’s best coffee hangouts that doesn’t get enough publicity.
March 15, 2009 at 8:02 am | by Gary[...] sizable menu distinguish the company, it moves in at a time when indie coffee shops seem stronger (and more common) than ever. Since its 2006 start in Woodstock, Coffee Culture has opened 27 locations, with [...]
March 19, 2009 at 2:07 pm | by Coffee Culture chain to open its first Toronto location | RestauranTO | torontolife.com/daily