Toronto Life‘s annual ranking of the city’s 10 best new restaurants is in our April issue, on newsstands now. Despite the lacklustre economy, it’s been a banner year for eating out. Here, James Chatto picks five more new restaurants are worth lining up for.
(Image: Renée Suen)
11. Buca
At a time when the King West restaurant scene is suffering (Crush under new management, Marc Thuet heading to B.C. to reprise Conviction, Susur busy elsewhere), Buca brings new energy to the strip. The location—up an alley, then down into the basement boiler room of a vintage industrial building—is coolly chic, and the hard decor of steel girders and open brick makes chef Rob Gentile’s artisanal Italian menu seem all the more warm and inviting. There’s no need to be fussy, just pick a bargain-priced bottle of southern Italian red and load up the table with dishes. House-cured salumi and lardo is an obvious choice, especially if Gentile’s salsiccine is part of the collation. Simple dishes are the most pleasing: braised artichoke with mint, salt and good olive oil; and a moist trout fillet stuffed with salty herbs. Fried pig ear and eel are far less challenging than they sound. Communal tables and brittle acoustics contribute to a party vibe that even downtown club-goers find hard to resist.
Buca, 604 King St. W. (at Portland St.), 416-865-1600.
Last winter, Patrick McMurray flooded the patio to make a skating rink for local children, a gesture that delighted the neighbourhood. Popularity has never been an issue at Ceili Cottage: it’s been packed since it opened, benches crowded elbow-to-elbow in the scruffy front room, regulars thronging the inner bar. Aiming to recreate a genuine Irish pub, McMurray brings in cask-conditioned ale, live Celtic music and a menu that offers a wide array of treats, including mushrooms on toast with melted blue cheese, a hearty mutton stew, and the best sticky toffee pudding in the city. Executive chef Kyle Deming’s Sunday roast turns a normally quiet evening into a boisterous occasion—and there are oysters, of course, though the variety is much greater at Starfish, McMurray’s other, far more sophisticated property. Execution won’t win any Michelin stars at the Cottage, but that’s partly the point: this is a place for a bite and a pint and a great deal of conversation, putting the world to rights.
Ceili Cottage, 1301 Queen St. E. (at Alton Ave.), 416-406-1301.
By now, anyone who loves smokehouse ribs in the North Carolina style will know that Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 5 p.m. are the optimum times to show up at The Stockyards. That’s when Tom Davis takes the sticky, spicy racks out of the smoker out back, where they’ve spent eight hours getting tenderized and infused with the flavours of hickory and apple wood. I’d rather be there on a quiet afternoon, when there’s room on a stool overlooking the industrial kitchen, waiting patiently while the succulent, crisp-skinned chicken bubbles in the deep-fryer, allowing exploration of other treats: tangy, slow-smoked pulled pork in a sandwich, perhaps, and soft smoked trout fillets with raw onion and greens between slices of grilled sourdough. Though most people use the place for takeout, the crisp, golden fries must be eaten in situ (they stiffen on the ride home). Dedicated carnivores should call ahead to find out whether the much-lauded pastrami is available. Vegetarians? This place isn’t for you.
The Stockyards, 699 St. Clair Ave. W. (at Humewood Dr.), 416-658-9666.
For as long as I can remember, Montreal expats have been complaining about Toronto’s lack of a decent deli. Zane Caplansky regularly begged friends to bring him a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz’s in Montreal whenever they visited. One day (or so the story goes), a friend forgot; in desperation, Caplansky taught himself to cure and smoke his own brisket. Urged on by everyone who tasted it, he started selling his smoked meat sandwiches out of the Monarch Tavern on Clinton until last September, when he grew into new premises at College and Brunswick—close enough to Kensington Market to be meaningful to those with long memories. The brightly lit, slightly scruffy-looking diner feels like it has been around for decades. Caplansky is always there, looking after customers, explaining how each piece of meat is a handmade, hand-cut product—a work of art, you might say. So is the excellent pickled herring—not too sour and with a gorgeously soft texture—and the moist, slow-braised brisket that comes with crispy onions, a sweet, tangy sauce and crisp but heavy latkes. And the smoked meat sandwich? I’d put Zane Caplansky’s up against Schwartz’s any day of the week.
Caplansky’s, 356 College St. (at Brunswick Ave.), 416-500-3852.
One of life’s classic blunders, says Vizzini in The Princess Bride, is “never get involved in a land war in Asia.” Only slightly less well known is “never try to combine a serious restaurant with a nightclub.” The challenges are enormous, and when I had dinner at the Roosevelt Room soon after it opened, I felt few of them had been met. The charming ingenue who served us knew little about the menu, and the pricey wine list was laden with champagne and chardonnays better suited to nightclub bottle service than sommelerie. Dinner tables set out on the dance floor amid the campy glamour of the “art deco” decor seemed like an afterthought. But the food, executed by Anthony Davis (Perigee’s former sous) from chef Trevor Wilkinson’s menu, was surprisingly accomplished. Juicy venison rib chop had a tasty crust from the grill, served with cream-braised leeks and potatoes Dauphine (one of the kitchen’s many retro touches). Crisp-skinned pickerel meunière was perfectly judged, sauced with a lightweight caper butter. Clubland rarely rewards ambition of this kind; I’m keen to see if the chefs can keep up the quality and stay true to their vision without making too many compromises.
The Roosevelt Room, 2 Drummond Pl. (at Adelaide St. W.), 416-599-9000.
![](http://www.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=https://torontolife.com/food/best-new-restaurants-2010-james-chatto-names-five-honourable-mentions/&title=Best new restaurants 2010: James Chatto names five honourable mentions&picture=https://torontolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/hon_mentions2010_im1.jpg&description=[caption id="attachment_19919" align="alignleft" width="330" caption="(Image: Renée Suen)"][/caption]
Toronto Life's annual ranking of the city's 10 best new restaurants is in our April issue, on newsstands now. Despite the lacklustre economy, it's been a banner year for eating out. Here, James Chatto picks five more new restaurants are worth lining up for.
[caption id="attachment_19725" align="alignright" width="350" caption="(Image: Renée Suen)"][/caption]
11. Buca
At a time when the King West restaurant scene is suffering (Crush under new management, Marc Thuet heading to B.C. to reprise Conviction, Susur busy elsewhere), Buca brings new energy to the strip. The location—up an alley, then down into the basement boiler room of a vintage industrial building—is coolly chic, and the hard decor of steel girders and open brick makes chef Rob Gentile’s artisanal Italian menu seem all the more warm and inviting. There’s no need to be fussy, just pick a bargain-priced bottle of southern Italian red and load up the table with dishes. House-cured salumi and lardo is an obvious choice, especially if Gentile’s salsiccine is part of the collation. Simple dishes are the most pleasing: braised artichoke with mint, salt and good olive oil; and a moist trout fillet stuffed with salty herbs. Fried pig ear and eel are far less challenging than they sound. Communal tables and brittle acoustics contribute to a party vibe that even downtown club-goers find hard to resist.
Buca, 604 King St. W. (at Portland St.), 416-865-1600.
• Read the Toronto Life review of Buca »
[caption id="attachment_19716" align="alignright" width="350" caption="(Image: Danielle Scott)"][/caption]
12. Ceili Cottage
Last winter, Patrick McMurray flooded the patio to make a skating rink for local children, a gesture that delighted the neighbourhood. Popularity has never been an issue at Ceili Cottage: it’s been packed since it opened, benches crowded elbow-to-elbow in the scruffy front room, regulars thronging the inner bar. Aiming to recreate a genuine Irish pub, McMurray brings in cask-conditioned ale, live Celtic music and a menu that offers a wide array of treats, including mushrooms on toast with melted blue cheese, a hearty mutton stew, and the best sticky toffee pudding in the city. Executive chef Kyle Deming’s Sunday roast turns a normally quiet evening into a boisterous occasion—and there are oysters, of course, though the variety is much greater at Starfish, McMurray’s other, far more sophisticated property. Execution won’t win any Michelin stars at the Cottage, but that’s partly the point: this is a place for a bite and a pint and a great deal of conversation, putting the world to rights.
Ceili Cottage, 1301 Queen St. E. (at Alton Ave.), 416-406-1301.
• Read the Toronto Life review of Ceili Cottage »
[caption id="attachment_19717" align="alignright" width="300" caption="(Image: Suzanne Long)"][/caption]
13. The Stockyards
By now, anyone who loves smokehouse ribs in the North Carolina style will know that Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 5 p.m. are the optimum times to show up at The Stockyards. That’s when Tom Davis takes the sticky, spicy racks out of the smoker out back, where they’ve spent eight hours getting tenderized and infused with the flavours of hickory and apple wood. I’d rather be there on a quiet afternoon, when there’s room on a stool overlooking the industrial kitchen, waiting patiently while the succulent, crisp-skinned chicken bubbles in the deep-fryer, allowing exploration of other treats: tangy, slow-smoked pulled pork in a sandwich, perhaps, and soft smoked trout fillets with raw onion and greens between slices of grilled sourdough. Though most people use the place for takeout, the crisp, golden fries must be eaten in situ (they stiffen on the ride home). Dedicated carnivores should call ahead to find out whether the much-lauded pastrami is available. Vegetarians? This place isn’t for you.
The Stockyards, 699 St. Clair Ave. W. (at Humewood Dr.), 416-658-9666.
• Read the Toronto Life review of The Stockyards »
[caption id="attachment_19718" align="alignright" width="330" caption="(Image: Matthew Fox)"][/caption]
14. Caplansky’s
For as long as I can remember, Montreal expats have been complaining about Toronto’s lack of a decent deli. Zane Caplansky regularly begged friends to bring him a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz’s in Montreal whenever they visited. One day (or so the story goes), a friend forgot; in desperation, Caplansky taught himself to cure and smoke his own brisket. Urged on by everyone who tasted it, he started selling his smoked meat sandwiches out of the Monarch Tavern on Clinton until last September, when he grew into new premises at College and Brunswick—close enough to Kensington Market to be meaningful to those with long memories. The brightly lit, slightly scruffy-looking diner feels like it has been around for decades. Caplansky is always there, looking after customers, explaining how each piece of meat is a handmade, hand-cut product—a work of art, you might say. So is the excellent pickled herring—not too sour and with a gorgeously soft texture—and the moist, slow-braised brisket that comes with crispy onions, a sweet, tangy sauce and crisp but heavy latkes. And the smoked meat sandwich? I’d put Zane Caplansky’s up against Schwartz’s any day of the week.
Caplansky’s, 356 College St. (at Brunswick Ave.), 416-500-3852.
• Read the Toronto Life review of Caplansky’s »
15. The Roosevelt Room
One of life’s classic blunders, says Vizzini in The Princess Bride, is “never get involved in a land war in Asia.” Only slightly less well known is “never try to combine a serious restaurant with a nightclub.” The challenges are enormous, and when I had dinner at the Roosevelt Room soon after it opened, I felt few of them had been met. The charming ingenue who served us knew little about the menu, and the pricey wine list was laden with champagne and chardonnays better suited to nightclub bottle service than sommelerie. Dinner tables set out on the dance floor amid the campy glamour of the “art deco” decor seemed like an afterthought. But the food, executed by Anthony Davis (Perigee’s former sous) from chef Trevor Wilkinson’s menu, was surprisingly accomplished. Juicy venison rib chop had a tasty crust from the grill, served with cream-braised leeks and potatoes Dauphine (one of the kitchen’s many retro touches). Crisp-skinned pickerel meunière was perfectly judged, sauced with a lightweight caper butter. Clubland rarely rewards ambition of this kind; I’m keen to see if the chefs can keep up the quality and stay true to their vision without making too many compromises.
The Roosevelt Room, 2 Drummond Pl. (at Adelaide St. W.), 416-599-9000.
• Read the Toronto Life review of the Roosevelt Room »){kind=link}
Why can’t you put all 6 of these on just one page of your incredibly slow website?
So good to hear from somebody who is still using dial-up. Speed is fine for me. I was a bit surprised by the inclusion of The Roosevelt Room – but I have never been there.
I actually prefer these sorts of stories being broken over a bunch of pages. It gives each restaurant their due, and allows me to digest each one like I’m flipping through a magazine.
Happy to see Ceili Cottage in the list. I know there are a lot of Ceili haters in the comments on this site, but I go there often and I’ve never had a bad time. That for me is key to a great restaurant experience.
I think they sell more ads when split
Roosevelt Room is garbage. G-A-R-B-A-G-E.
I agree that putting each one on a different page is annoying. I remember one time that Toronto Life had the top 50 of something. I think I got to number 7 and gave up. And no, I don’t have dial up and I’m not on a Commodore 64.
Celli Cottage…you have got to be kidding. Food and ambience is much better at The Roy.
Is the Wine Bar not considered a new restaurant, or just not very impressive?
Caplansky’s is over hyped and many of the other reviews on other boards are spot on.
The place is /very/ inconsistent and when we went the meat was dry and flavourless. If it weren’t for the mustard, you’d be fooled into thinking you were eating cardboard.
they split it over multiple pages because each click equals a new pageview – pageviews sell ad inventory…
Pleasantly surprised to see ROOSEVELT ROOM on there. FOOD AND our server, an older guy were AMAZING!
Your site is so slow that I almost gave up. Not a great 21st century experience for a major media organization like yours.
I like your content though.
This was a painfully slow exercise. I’m on high speed and it was frustrating as all h-e-double hockey stick. Put them one 1 page with lower resolution pictures!
I’m not using dial up and I find it annoying too. Too slow. List them all on page one with a link. Duh.
What’s with all the complaints about the web-site being to slow? I had no troubles!
I actually went to caplansky’s yesterday because I heard soo much about it and I was very disappointed, the meat was dry and hard, it does NOT even come close to Schwartz….The Centre Street Deli in Thornhill has much better smoked meat, and you wont have a hard time finding parking.
I agree with Aamira, centre street deli is a much better place its 10mins from York university and the smoked meat is awesome. I decided to check out Caplanskys smoked meat last week and I was left unsatisfied. Maybe it was the fact that it was more like a do-it-yourself sandwich, ie the diff mustards were on the table for you to use. Regardless, I did not like the taste of the meat. If your looking for smoked meat please dont buy it here, try other things
Two smoked meat houses, an Irish pub, and the horrible Roosevelt Room? What a sad statement on the Toronto food scene and its supposed critics.
Caplansky’s food was just above a ho-hum diner. And the service was slow (we were told “it’s lunch time” when we waited 45 minutes for eggs). I wish we had a real Jewish deli; Caplansky’s isn’t it.
Ceili Cottage? Not likely, food is decent! Staff is rude.
I really find the page by page painfull. Can i suggest, at least a PDF version be made available. then i can download and reference to my heart’s content.
thanks
Page by page was OK, I didn’t have speed problems. I liked Caplansky’s: but I had the brisket sandwich (it was delish and tender), not the smoked meat.
Much as I admire what Zane Caplansky has done with his “full service deli” (matzoh ball soup, etc.), he’s missed the boat on the smoked meat. Inconsistent; poorly sliced – frequently not against the grain; not melt-in-you-mouth tender like Schwartz’s. But there’s only one Schwartz’s. So why not try the absolute BEST smoked meat sandwich in Toronto at the New Times Café on College. It’s produced by two dedicated SM aficionados, the Goldin brothers. Their meat is sweet, juicy and flavourful. Do yourselves a favour. Run over there, and then thank me publicly on this site. Bob
I love the new restaurant that has just opened on college.It’s called Frank’s Kitchen.I remember the chef from Centro.He still does amazing things with food.Not a huge place but good ambiance and good service.
Caplansky’s sucks! I was so excited to try it, and so disappointed when I left. The smoked meat paled in comparison to Shwartzes in MTL, and even paled in comparison to Centre Street Deli in Thornhill. Very dry, very chewy, and the taste was way off. I’m no restaurateur, but I could take that place and turn it on its head and start pumping out some proper smoked meat fare. Heck…even the fries sucked.
It is important that Caplansky’s starts to rule. But anyone who knows anything about old school yiddisha fare, understand that is sucks.
Agree that Roosevelt does not make the cut! Service was fantastic. I’ve been twice now for dinner and both times the food was average (and that’s being generous!). Although this place has gotten great reviews for being a night club, I’m surprised Chatto fell into the ‘hype’ and included it in any “top” list…
The Roosevelt room was a terrible experience. very bad food. bad service. meh atmosphere.
Roosevelt Room seems to attract alot of controversy. lol. I LOVED it. EXCELLENT food. The Waldorf salad was divine. Great service, Jason was a cutie. I left with a smile and a full belly.
But has he got the fries right? If he does fries as well as Schwartzes, then he’s sure to be a keeper.
I can’t believe Paul Bohmer’s new place didn’t make it. Great food, awesome interior, and he has his own cool water bottles.
I had read some bad things about Roosevelt, but in my never-ending quest for new restaurants, I decided to give it a shot on whim on a Friday night.
Since the place is very close to to the Extreme gym where I workout, I actually decided to first check out the menu and ask the staff if they had room tonight. I was told that they had room but that I better show up on time. When I arrived the place was empty, so I was somewhat puzzled (and turned off) by that advice.
Anyways, both me and my date ordered a romaine heart salad. The tips of the pieces of lettuce in or salad were rotten so that you had to slice them off. The waitress did not ask how dish was so I never informed her. The main I ordered was seared perch which was adequate but not tasty. It was served with very unappealing beans. Our dessert was some odd peanut butter and chocolate dish which completely missed the mark. As a bit of a chocolate freak, I’m not that hard to satisfy, so that was a bit of a disappointment.
Despite the quick service of the dishes, our waitress was not very attentive, and seemed more interested in offering “drinks” than in focusing on the food. I found the setup to be a bit cavernous, with no real atmosphere and the silly “club shots” on the screen savers on the large screen TV’s to be distracting. But these are all more minor quibbles; fundamentally, the food was unsatisfying.
For those of you who are looking for a “real Jewish deli”, the place to go is Pancer’s. I tried Caplansky’s only because I had heard so much about it, and since then I have decided that I will never go back. If you want a truly delicious smoked meat, corned beef, or pastrami sandwich – Pancer’s is your place. Beyond the sandwiches themselves, the knish and kishke at Pancer’s is so far superior to those at Caplansky’s that I cannot even compare the two. The same goes for the cabbage borscht, which rounds out the necessary dishes at a true Jewish deli.
I am most definitely someone who appreciates a great Jewish deli, and Caplansky’s is not it. If you are in Toronto, and therefore cannot go to Schwartz’s in Montreal, do yourself a favor and drive the extra few minutes north (to Bathurst and Wilson) and go to Pancer’s.
Must we whine so much? This section is fine page by page.
iPad works great with this type of site.
Shwartz’s has got to be the most over rated over hyped smoked meat place around. I was there last week, it was dry meat, crumbly, and the fries were terrrible. I hear Pete’s Smoked Meat is the best, but 20mins out of Montreal. I’ll check it out in the next few weeks.
FOR THE LIFE OF ME I DON’T UNDERSTAND THIS RATING….FOOD WAS SO MEDIOCRE , TASTELESS, AND ENTIRELY DISAPPOINTING…WHEN I DISCUSSED THIS WITH FRIENDS, THEY TOO COULD NOT UNDERSTAND THE HIGH RATINGS…SOME THOUGHT IT A JOKE, OTHERS FELT THE REVIEWERS WERE WAY OUT OF LINE AND NOT COMPLETELY SOBER WHEN REVIEWING IT…
I think Frank’s Kitchen on College Street should be on this list. The food is excellent and prepared by a former Centro chef. It is the best new secret in town.
Even with high-speed cable, nothing erases the fact that readers want to see the entire list when they click on the link. I guess no one at Toronto Life remembers Evelyn Wood Reading Dynamics that teaches readers to scan and absorb a whole page at once! Obviously the curious will click through the links to the establishments they are curious about. And everyone’s a happier camper!!
The Roosevelt Room was an absolute DISAPPOINTMENT…TERRIBLE. Don’t bother wasting your time and money on very bad service and food that is designed to prey on those with a unexperienced food palette. The Roosevelt Room is trying very hard to compete with the best restaurants in town but shouldn’t be spoken in the same sentence as the other great restaurants that deserve a compliment. I am so disappointed that this restaurant made it on the list. Chatto…what are you thinking?
What about Ruby Watch Co.
Celebrity Chef Lynn Crawford Celebrity Designer Cherie Stinson and they are actually there every night and that’s not even including Michelin award winning Chef Lora Kirk.
Always full and amazing food, different every night. NOT ONLY THE BEST OF NEW RESTAURANTS OF 2010, but the best dining experience in Toronto. Report properly.
All these restaurants suck, jump on a flight from porter and eat in new York !!
Caplansky’s, finished my beyond tasteless sandwich and the server bussed my plate and my half finished beer at the same time!! Would never suggest it. Rudest service ever.
my old girlfriend comes to mind for some reason when i look at this meaty sandwich…
I moved from Mtl. 16 yrs. ago, and visit family 5-6 times a year. I always squeeze in Schwartz’s on my visits so when my Toronto friends told me to try Caplansky’s, I was very excited. I love my friends but I hated Caplansky’s smoked meat! It didn’t taste anything like Schwartz’s, and in fact, although I don’t mind smoked meat from several other places in Mtl., I so disliked this one that I left all but 3 bites on my plate. One of my girlfriends’ who has also been to Mtl. and has had Schwartz’s several times also hated it and left it on her plate – the taste was awful!
I agree that the Roosevelt Room shouldn’t be on the list. Nor should Caplansky’s for that matter – honorable mention or not – there’s nothing new there – except the lack of unique ambiance that had everyone going to the Clinton Kitchen.
And on the website – yeah, it’s slow. Shame really – too many high-bandwidth ads. I guess it’s a balance between advertising dollars and operability – a balance that stems from the decline of print?
Too much clicking req’d. Definitely not user friendly. You who don’t recognize the problem must be successful computer robotrons. The rest of us discerning people just want some intelligent input into our dining out choices.