Jamie Kennedy (Photo by Davida Aronovitch)
Jamie Kennedy had a rough year in 2009: he sold Hank’s and the Wine Bar, his Gardiner Museum restaurant took a more casual route, and he was essentially on the brink of bankruptcy. “I expanded too quickly,” he told The Globe back in June. “I was exposed to costs far out of balance with my revenue.”
Now Kennedy is making his way back to the kitchen five nights a week at Gilead Bistro, where his study in economy hasn’t gone unnoticed by The Star’s Amy Pataki (nor has the less-than-packed dining room). For example, Pataki notes that the bistro charges $3 for bread. Also, Kennedy sells charcuterie and soups through the Healthy Butcher and turns chicken and beef bones into stock that can be bought at Rowe Farms.
As for the review, Pataki had mixed feelings. She notes that the classic French dishes are unfussy and well proportioned, but such oversights as cold potatoes and slightly burnt crêpes are hard to ignore. Good marks are given for the pork belly appetizer, the chicken consommé and the coq au vin. Most surprising is that Kennedy’s famous fries aren’t on the Gilead menu, but fans can order them for $6. Looks like Kennedy has emerged from last year’s financial mess as a more resourceful chef.
• Jamie Kennedy: eating his words [Globe and Mail]
• Humble pie a new dish for Kennedy [Toronto Star]
Wow, $6.00 for fries….interesting. The article also mentions that “leftover” butter is clarified to make hollandaise. One would wonder what the butter is “leftover” from.
March 1, 2010 at 10:25 am | by MattagascarJoanne Kates did a much fuller review in the Globe: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/restaurant-review-gilead-bistro/article1482657/
March 2, 2010 at 7:25 am | by SarahIt would be a nice thing to see a review by pataki where she makes senses. If there was a last place for food critics Pataki would get it. Ciao Bella …
March 2, 2010 at 9:25 am | by JohnJamie Kennedy’s fries are the best fries ever!!!
March 4, 2010 at 7:08 pm | by VV