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Toronto Life - The Dish

The latest restaurant buzz, including what’s opening, what’s closing, and where to eat, drink and be seen

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February 8, 2012 | 1:34 pm

Zagat’s 2012 survey picks Toronto’s best restos and settles that pesky average tipping question

Scaramouche’s Keith Froggett (Image: Renée Suen)

Online restaurant review sites like Yelp and Urbanspoon may have cut into the crowd-sourced territory that Zagat once owned, but the yearly survey still has some clout—and the power to get diners in the door. The 2,266 food-loving Torontonians who voted in this year’s survey were crazy for Keith Froggett, giving fine dining restaurant Scaramouche top honours for food and also placing Scaramouche’s pasta bar in the top 10. But the winners weren’t all about linen tablecloths and tasting menus: The Burger’s Priest, with its epically greasy Vatican City burger, broke the top three for best food, while pan-Asian chain Spring Rolls was voted most popular restaurant (proving that democracy isn’t foolproof).

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February 7, 2012 | 4:49 pm

Councillors say there’s hope for patios at Campagnolo, Woodlot and more

(Image: Jon Sufrin)

Last week, we pointed out that city staff had recommended that patio permit applications for Campagnolo and Woodlot (among others) be denied at the February 14 meeting of the Toronto and East York Community Council, which prompted a helpful commenter to suggest things might not be as grim as they’d initially seemed. We called up a pair of councillors—Trinity-Spadina’s Mike Layton and Davenport’s Ana Bailão—who confirmed that, yes, staff must follow the letter of the bylaw in their reports. In other words, they must recommend that an application be denied for a patio within 25 metres of a residential zone—but that doesn’t stop councillors from approving patios that don’t meet every nitpicky requirement.

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Restauran-TO

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February 3, 2012 | 11:47 am

War on fun update: patio applications for Campagnolo, Woodlot and more up for Valentine’s Day rejection

More like probably denied (Image: Jon Sufrin)

Summer—a.k.a. patio season—is still months away, but that isn’t stopping the Toronto and East York Community Council from raining on everyone’s parade in advance. Seven proposals for “boulevard café permits,” including from Campagnolo and the Queen West location of Dark Horse Espresso Bar, are on the agenda for the upcoming Valentine’s Day meeting of community council. In each and every case, city staff members have recommended that the application be denied. (To be fair, most of the time at least some nearby residents have opposed the patios.) At the same meeting, the Greektown on the Danforth Business Improvement Association will continue its battle against Toronto’s inconsistent rules on patio hours. Last year, a stretch of Danforth eateries won the right to keep their patios open until midnight, but a few party animals just couldn’t help themselves and broke curfew—so city staff has recommended the privilege be withdrawn. See the full list of doomed patio proposals after the jump:

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Restauran-TO

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February 2, 2012 | 3:21 pm

Ever-hungry/lazy 20-somethings lead brisk growth in the restaurant industry

“Quick-service restaurants” account for 64 per cent of food service in Canada (Image: Simon Law)

When they’re not bellyaching about adulthood and posing for Instagrams, it seems 20-somethings enjoy dining out—a lot. According to a new report from market research group NPD, Canada is witnessing a spike in restaurant traffic, due largely to people in their late teens and early 20s. People aged 18 to 24 played a large part in a three per cent traffic increase over the last two quarters. What’s more, the group writes that “visits to Canadian restaurants are forecasted to grow nearly two per cent per year between 2011 and 2016.” Okay, that might not sound like much, but that growth will apparently “surpass the projected 1.2 per cent annual growth of the country’s population.” The millennials are driving this growth partly because of their love of what the NPD calls “quick-service restaurants,” a delightful euphemism for fast-food joints. The group says fast-food restaurant QSRs account for “64 per cent of the overall food service landscape.” Which makes it one fatty landscape indeed.

Restauran-TO

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February 1, 2012 | 3:08 pm

Old-school downtown Italian spot Little Anthony’s to receive Volos-like facelift

After successfully transforming Mediterra into the upscale Greek spot Estiatorio Volos, Andreas Antoniou has turned to another of the Richmond Street eateries formerly run by his restaurateur father, Bob. Little Anthony’s Italian Ristorante will re-open in March as Little Anthony’s Italian and Bar, in an overhauled space and with a new menu. “It’s similar to moving from Mediterra to Volos,” Antoniou told The Dish. “We want to take traditional dishes and present them in a clean fashion with really nice flavor combinations.”

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January 31, 2012 | 4:19 pm

Ottawa-based cult chain The Works sets out to become the Second Cup of burgers

(Image: The Works)

The Works, the popular chain of gourmet burger joints that started in Ottawa in 2001, has announced a downright Manifest Destiny–like plan for national expansion: 50 new locations across the country. The chain already has locations in London, Kingston, Ottawa, Guelph and Oakville, and three others under construction—including one on the Danforth set to open in May. It’s an impressive spread for the company, which, by its own admission, developed “a cult-like following among burger connoisseurs in Ottawa.” Among those connoisseurs: Bank of Canada governor Mark Carney, not to mention former Montana’s president Andy O’Brien, who took over The Works last year along with two of his vice-presidents. Michael Bregman, the former owner of Second Cup, is one of the company’s new directors, which suggests The Works might soon be the Little Burger Place That Could.

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January 30, 2012 | 9:19 am

Windows by Jamie Kennedy set to open in Niagara Falls this February

Jamie Kennedy and chef de cuisine Ross Midgley (Images: Jamie Kennedy Kitchens)

Back in May, we reported that Jamie Kennedy was lending his expertise (and perhaps more importantly, his name) to a fine dining restaurant on the 14th floor of the Sheraton on the Falls Hotel, to be called Jamie Kennedy on the Falls. The restaurant is now set to open sometime in the next month, under a new name: Windows by Jamie Kennedy. “We’ve been told mid-February,” Jamie Kennedy Kitchens spokesperson Jo Dickins told The Dish. Partner Canadian Niagara Hotels has already started the search for staff to work under chef de cuisine Ross Midgley, with Tony Aspler running the wine program. The restaurant hopes to draw GTA residents familiar with Kennedy by sticking with his famously locavore philosophy—but we’re sure the views of the falls won’t hurt either.

Restauran-TO

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January 27, 2012 | 2:47 pm

Foie gras, surprise caviar orders and one tight ship: my 12-hour stage at Splendido

The service entrance at Splendido (click any image for more info)

Our regular contributor Renée Suen was recently invited to put away her fork and don an apron to stage at Splendido (a culinary stage is a brief and usually unpaid educational stint at a restaurant). Renée is an ambitious home cook, but her professional experience consists mostly of high school summers working at a soup and sandwich shop and weekends slinging bubble tea during university. Can she handle the heat of 12 hours in a professional kitchen? Will chef de cuisine Patrick Kriss make her cry? Find out below, and check out our behind-the-scenes gallery at the end. Words and pictures by Renée Suen

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January 25, 2012 | 4:50 pm

This is what happens when 12 culinary students get to cook with Paolo Lopriore, the world’s 39th best chef

Chef Paolo Lopriore having a short meeting in the Prune’s kitchen (Image: Renée Suen)

During the second year of their apprenticeship at the Stratford Chefs School—considered one of the most prestigious in the country—students are given the opportunity to learn from seriously talented guest chefs, including many with Michelin stars to their name and not a few regular patrons of the illustrious San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurant list. Past chefs have included Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillere, France), Riccardo Camanini (Villa Fiordaliso, Italy) and, most recently, Paolo Lopriore, head chef of Il Canto in Siena, Italy, the 39th best restaurant according to the 2011 list. We stopped by to see what he had to teach and scope out his creations.

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Restauran-TO

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January 25, 2012 | 9:25 am

The Golden Turtle, reborn: a quick tour of the renovated Ossington Vietnamese staple

Before and after

Faithful west-side devotees of the Golden Turtle, Ossington’s beloved pho institution, were distraught last month when they discovered it papered up. After soldiering through a post–New Year’s recovery period without the usual salty-spicy fortification, they can now breathe easy: it’s back, it’s a little shinier and the prices are unchanged. We dropped by to check out the new art, chandeliers, windows and kitchen.

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January 18, 2012 | 3:03 pm

The musical kitchen chairs continue at Maléna and L’Unità with Matthew Sullivan’s departure

Matthew Sullivan, a man on the move (in this photo, from one side of Queen Street to another) (Image: Natalie Castellino)

Back in October, we reported that Matthew Sullivan, fresh off his abortive pop-up series Boxed, had taken over the reins at Maléna, which lost its executive chef Doug Neigel to Mercatto, which had lost its executive chef when Top Chef Canada finalist Rob Rossi left to open his own place, Bestellen, which should be opening soon (got all that?). Now, after only four months, Sullivan has taken leave of Maléna and its sister restaurant L’Unità to, you guessed it, resume his Boxed pop-ups, according to a story on Post City’s blog. For now, the two Av and Dav restaurants will be led by their current chefs de cuisine, Alex Bruveris and Mike Angeloni, respectively.

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Restauran-TO

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January 16, 2012 | 11:14 am

Is 20 per cent the new 15 per cent? Restaurant tips nudge ever upward

This customer scrutinizes his bills closely (Image: pasukaru76)

In today’s Toronto Star, Amy Pataki reports on the latest trend sweeping Roncesvalles: credit card machines suggesting a 20 per cent tip. At least, that’s the standard at the strip’s two newest restaurants, The Ace and The Westerly. Pataki quotes Ace owner Greg Boggs explaining, “It’s not a sneaky thing, nor is it an expectation. I always tip at least 20 per cent when I go out.” Of course, the two Roncy restos aren’t the only ones that have moved to what Pataki refers to as “the Manhattan standard”—at the three locations of Mexican restaurant Milagro, suggested tips come in at 16, 20 and, ahem, 30 per cent (the last for larger parties). Long-time Dish readers will remember the furor that broke out when then-MPP David Caplan (who happens to be the brother of Zane Caplansky) proposed a bill than would ban automatic gratuities on large parties (that effort died on the order paper). We wonder how Torontonians will react to this new nudge northward. Read the entire story [Toronto Star] »

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January 10, 2012 | 5:51 pm
Blogger trio to eat their way through Koreatown in one delicious year 

We’ve seen our share of “ate my way through ____” blogs, but The Kimchi Diaries has a quiet humour that makes us think it’ll be worth the trip. Over the next year, three Koreatown residents plan to eat at every single restaurant on Bloor between Grace and Bathurst, giving each a rating out of five stars (actually, snowflakes from the K-town holiday sign). The first review is full of candid photos and includes comments like, “On the downside, A.J. didn’t get as much water as he wanted, Beth couldn’t find the light in the bathroom, and neither could Dan (nor could he find any toilet paper, which prompted an abrupt end to lunch).” We’re looking forward to future instalments (hopefully including a visit to Hodo Kwaja for some walnut cakes). And we’re guessing the gang will pack a little Charmin for next time ’round (perhaps a sponsorship opportunity?). Check out the blog [The Kimchi Diaries] »

Restauran-TO

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January 10, 2012 | 3:31 pm

Nick Liu leaves Niagara Street Café to open an Asian brasserie

Nick Liu serving his General Tso’s sweetbreads at this year’s What’s on the Table fundraiser for The Stop (Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

After manning the stoves at Niagara Street Café for three years, Nick Liu, who won acclaim for his ever-changing menus and creative takes on Asian ingredients, has left to open his own place. As Eric Vellend reported on Winefox, Liu’s last night at the cozy King West restaurant was on New Year’s Eve, where he served a six-course tasting menu featuring some of his greatest hits from 2011. Liu tells us that during his stint at Niagara Street, his first as an executive chef, he “learned to be a more creative and resourceful chef.” Next up for him, an “Asian brasserie” concept he’s developing with his partners, slated to open later this year. “I’m using new techniques and adapting classic dishes,” he told us. “Y’know—shit my dad made.”

Restauran-TO

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January 10, 2012 | 11:02 am

Where magazine names Acadia Toronto’s best new restaurant

This morning, Where announced its annual picks for the best new restaurant in each of the regions the travel magazine covers in Canada. The winner for Toronto, unsurprisingly, was Acadia, Matt Blondin and Scott Selland’s buzzy new Clinton Street temple to the cuisine of the Lowcountry, which the Where editors praised for its “precisely pruned menu of seasonal sea- and soul-food dishes in a space that’s evocative of an old, oceanside cottage.” Other picks across the country include Calgary’s Latin-tinged Ox and Angela, Parry Sound’s Kudos Kuisine and the vintage-glam Hawksworth Restaurant in Vancouver’s Rosewood Hotel Georgia. Toronto Life will announce its picks for the city’s top 10 new restaurants of 2011 in our April issue. Read the entire story [Where] »

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