Mixologist Scott Talbot pours church-inspired drinks along the marble-clad bar (Image: Simone Olivero)
It’s been nearly a year since we first noticed the permit signs on the long-abandoned Slavic church at the corner of Queen and Dovercourt. Having walked by the vacant property for years, Sandra Cassaro and David Beddia finally took the plunge on it last January, hoping to build a sophisticated yet unpretentious place to have drinks with friends. With backgrounds in construction and marketing and event planning (Cassaro has worked with Liberty Entertainment Group and Ink Entertainment), these childhood friends recruited Italy-born chef Fabio Sacca to help them create their menu of Italian small plates.
Similar to a North American “happy hour,” Aperitivo Italiano has been gaining popularity across Europe for the last few years. Complimentary appetizers are served in the early evening, accompanied by light alcoholic drinks, as a way to unwind prior to dinner. Church will be holding Aperitivo Italiano from 5 to 6:30 p.m. every Tuesday to Saturday, with complimentary small dishes like stuffed mushrooms, mini pizzas, crostini and arancini alongside a cocktail menu featuring church-themed drinks such as “The Holy Caesar” ($10) and “Salvation” ($12), made with gin, Campari, muddled cucumber, rosemary and a splash of soda. A regular menu of more refined small dishes will be available outside that time featuring items like traditional meatballs ($8), spaghetti ($11), beef carpaccio ($8) and braised octopus ($12).
Staying true to its holy roots, Church looks very much like a church. Designer Guido Costantino (responsible for Buca on King West) worked closely with Cassaro and Beddia to keep as much of the original structure in place as possible. The main entrance is through the arched double doors, and inside, the restaurant is divided by a centre aisle that separates the bar from the seating area. A large cutout in the ceiling reveals the original wood beams of the church and leads up to the altar where, appropriately enough in our chef-worshipping times, the kitchen is now housed. With nary a pew in sight, the bar has a contemporary vibe, with dim lighting and loud music: of course, instead of the sound of a choir ringing out on Sunday morning, there’s a DJ who spins on Thursday, Friday and Saturday until the wee hours.
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- Mixologist Scott Talbot pours church-inspired drinks along the marble-clad bar
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- From the outside, it’s a dead ringer for a church
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- Church doors heading outside
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- Steps up to the head of the altar (and kitchen prep area)
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- Looking down on the congregation
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- Exposed beams from original church ceiling
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- Italy-inspired pigeon mural next to bar
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- Exposed brick wall preserved from original structure
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- The DJ station at the end of the bar spins music from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. from Thursday to Saturday
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- Aperitivo hour is Tuesday to Saturday from 5 to 6:30 p.m.
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- Antipasti and stuzzichini (snacks) like arancini, stuffed mushrooms, breaded seared shrimp, house-made pizza and crostini with smoked salmon are complimentary with purchase of an alcoholic beverage during aperitivo hour
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- Talbot’s “Holy Caesar” is already developing something of a cult following: Ketel One vodka, Clamato juice, dill pickle juice, muddled pepperoncini and basil black peppercorn with a pink rock salt rim ($10)
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- Polenta poutine “church” fries ($7), an Italian spin on poutine
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- Veal and pork meatballs with house-made sugo ($8)
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- Braised octopus, potato saffron cream and olives ($12)
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- A daily fish carpaccio of swordfish
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- Arugula salad with grilled mushrooms, almonds, parmigiano and sherry-mustard vinaigrette ($7)
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- Chef Fabio Sacca at work in the kitchen at the head of the altar
Church Aperitivo Bar, 1090 Queen St. W., 416-537-1090, churchaperitivobar.com
Amazing addition to queen west! Ive been there several times since the opening ! The best spaghetti and meatballs in the city!!!!!
February 23, 2012 at 5:41 pm | by Aubrey kyes aubrey we are all quite aware of your love of this place that you work at
February 24, 2012 at 5:59 am | by yelpersuckGreat another Italian restaurant… owned by ink entertainment to follow the recently closed Ame and Ultra Supper Club… Am I the only Torontonian tired Italian Restaurants opening? I want something fresh and less tiresome like Acadia, County General, and Keriwa Cafe.
February 27, 2012 at 2:07 pm | by JaQI AGREE ANOTHER ITALIAN RUSTIC BLAH BLAH BLAH
I LIKE SOMETHING DIFFERENT AS WELL , LIKE A PERUVIAN PLACE OR TIBETAN?
February 29, 2012 at 9:56 pm | by ROMEOlots of tibetan further west on queen street….
March 1, 2012 at 12:59 pm | by parkdaleeaterThis place sucks…please go we dont need King west trash on Queen now.
March 5, 2012 at 6:10 pm | by Mary SAmazing Food…gorgeous space…great vibe. Def be back!
March 6, 2012 at 11:01 pm | by SaraWhy all the hate? The food here is fanstastic, the drinks are delicious and the staff is great. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of italian restaurants out there but only a handful are great, and this one of them. DEF going back!
March 7, 2012 at 2:10 pm | by Rudyhad a great experience here…authentic italian food and great place to have some cocktails
March 7, 2012 at 7:34 pm | by SandyWas at Church tonight during aperitivo hours and I must say that the selection of apps was plenty and tasty. Cool ambience and the staff was cool too-especially the bartender, she makes a great Caesar. Looking forward to having dinner there soon and trying their famous meatballs!!
March 7, 2012 at 10:12 pm | by JohnnyTOI must say that I was quite impressed with not only the awesome vibe and great service, but also, and most importantly, the unique and authentic italian cuisine. and, as a proud italo-canadian, don’t believe all the hype you hear out there about so-called authentic italian restaurants. Church is the real deal. when i inquired further, i learned that the chef is straight from Italiy, and you can certainly tell. The food is delish!!. the only heads up, is to keep in mind that as an aperativo bar, the dishes are small and meant to be shared like tapas! Church is a great addition to queen west!
March 9, 2012 at 9:56 pm | by TrinityHey I was looking into celebrating my 30th birthday at church. Just wondering how the night life (music) is after the meals! Can it facilitate a large group?
March 31, 2012 at 2:12 pm | by PatriciaThis place sucks food is crapy snoby owners
May 17, 2012 at 6:02 am | by JoeFood was bad and so was the service
May 17, 2012 at 6:02 am | by JoeDavid bedia owner thinks his shit don’t stink cocky boy
May 17, 2012 at 6:04 am | by Joe