Inigo is Carlos Hernandez's take on the churrasqueira
While Dundas West is in the midst of a carnivorous craze with a serious emphasis on the pig (we’re looking at you, Porchetta and Co.), a new Queen West takeout spot at the southern end of Trinity-Bellwoods Park is putting its faith in the original white meat: chicken. Carlos Hernandez opened up shop at Inigo last week—in Igor Kenk’s old spot— where he’s offering his take on the Portuguese churrasqueira, those homey greasy spoons ubiquitous on College and Dundas West.
“At the end of the day, everyone seems to say they want something simple,” Hernandez, the former chef of the Kensington Market tapas staple Torito, told us. Simple, in this case, means free-range, grain-fed chicken that’s sprinkled with sea salt, then roasted in a convection oven in alternating bursts of dry heat and steam, to retain moisture. The result may not be rotisserie-gold, but Hernandez would rather have taste and moisture than colour any day.
Inigo espouses a create-your-own-meal ethos, with roast chicken as the mainstay (half $6.75, a quarter white meat $4.75), as well as “other species” (that’s actually what the menu says), like braised beef cheeks with root vegetables ($6.25) and braised venison with apples and currants ($6.75). Start by choosing a main; add such sides as mashed potatoes (made from scratch, $2.50) and brown basmati rice ($2.50). Ratatouille ($5.75) and a selection of salads, including French lentils and squash ($3.25), round out the vegetarian options. Food is prepared beforehand and set up on a steam table, so the wait is virtually nil. And with just over a dozen seats, the idea is literally to go in and out: “in-I-go,” as the name suggests.
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- A new churrasqueira replaces Igor Kenk’s notorious bike shop
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- The small space features paintings by Francesco Gallé
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- Chef and owner Carlos Hernandez
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- Quarter chicken, dark meat, with a potato salad ($6.75)
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- Braised beef cheeks with mashed potatoes ($8.75)
The narrow space is adorned with paintings by Toronto artist Francesco Gallé, including two done in espresso. Countertops are decked out in pressed bamboo, while large windows at the front keep things bright—there’s nary a reminder of the space’s dingy, dubious past. Still, it’s impossible to completely erase such a legacy. “If you dig around in the back yard,” Hernandez quips, “you could probably find a bike.”
Inigo, 927 Queen St. W. (at Strachan Ave.), 416-645-6707.
the chef is at best mediocre, the food,…well u can see is caca~! hey hernadez did u buy those pans at winners????really toronto life can u pls post relevant chefs in here not some has never been never will be ding dongs~!~thank u very mmuch
January 18, 2011 at 9:18 pm | by kunpaokunpao
You’re probably some disgruntled ex-Torito employee who can’t keep a job anywhere because you’re such an illiterate jackass.
Never worked there? Well, then you’re just an illiterate jackass. Go f yourself.
January 18, 2011 at 9:29 pm | by The TruthJust checked this out on the way home today. Awesome food! Fresh, tasty, and and affordable. Tried the quarter white chicken with basmati rice. Delicious! And can’t wait to try other items on the menu. A welcome addition to the neighbourhood!
January 18, 2011 at 10:39 pm | by Bellwoods Dog WalkerI LOVELOVELOVE chicken done Portuguese styles, and while this place is way out of my area, I will definitely make a point of trying it, the sides are different from the standard but all sound really yums.
January 19, 2011 at 2:28 am | by yayAnd yeah what is up with kunpao, I didn’t get what this person meant about dingdongs…but anyway there should be nothing negative said about Portuguese chicken unless the piri-piri and potatoes are off.
To the morons trading “intelligent” arguments here: you’re both off side for lacking even basic spelling and grammar skills. An argument isn’t worth presenting unless you do so credibly.
And ‘kunpao” what an interesting moniker you chose. I assume it alludes to kunG pao chicken. Clever. Too bad your speling is off, phonetically so now you’ll never know if you called yourself a delicious chicken or a whale’s vagina.
Nice.
January 20, 2011 at 9:58 am | by ShannonShannon, you made me laugh til I cried, girl! I deplore bad spelling, also…just saying.
January 21, 2011 at 10:40 am | by CatherineI, for one, am looking forward, with anticipation, to my Spring bike ride across the city to try my very favourite Portuguese Chicken!
“To the morons trading “intelligent” arguments here: you’re both off side for lacking even basic spelling and grammar skills”
Both?
Maybe you could pull your copy of Elements of Style out of your ass and explain what grammatical or spelling errors I made in my post.
While you’re busy doing that, let me tell you about a couple in yours: “off side” is one word, “speling” requires 2 L’s and “Clever.” is not a sentence.
And, of course, anyone who can read and write English properly knows that “Too bad your speling is off, phonetically so now you’ll never know if you called yourself a delicious chicken or a whale’s vagina.” is a lot of things but a complete sentence isn’t one of them.
No, I’m not surprised that you don’t have a clue what Elements of Style is.
January 22, 2011 at 8:42 pm | by The TruthIs Igor not cooking in the kitchen anymore???
January 25, 2011 at 8:44 am | by AreThoseReal?I think it’s a little sad when a review of a new chicken place deteriorates into name calling and arguments about grammar. Everyone together, deep breath.
January 26, 2011 at 10:09 am | by BigsacIt’s a new chicken place, food looks good, hope it is.
so so unfortunate that inigo does not serve good food. Their chicken is tasteless; especially when portugese chicken is usually so tasty! We were so excited to have a new healthy place in the hood, but won’t be back due to the tasteless food & high prices for the quality and serving size. Can’t imagine it will last the year. Too bad because the owners seem like nice people.
January 30, 2011 at 9:53 pm | by leebertVery tasty food at reasonable prices. Healthy, delicious, guilt-free takeout, for a change.
February 1, 2011 at 12:17 am | by RoccoLet’s stick with the main course, and save the glamour of grammar for another time: Hernandez’s touch is sure, some might say profound. The food is nuanced, the servings are generous, and the ambience is redolent of a master’s workshop.
I’ll be back again and again.
February 1, 2011 at 5:32 pm | by AchillesFantastic food at a reasonable price. Cute location. Hernandez is a master at his work. Check it out for yourself. . .
February 2, 2011 at 3:12 pm | by JeannetteThis sounds personal not about the food.
February 2, 2011 at 3:14 pm | by JeannetteFood is really great, I found the portions of the sides a bit small but the second time I was there I mentioned it to the server and she gave me more…I offered to pay double but she said not to worry about it.
February 7, 2011 at 4:25 pm | by Krystine