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Greatest Hits: Chris Nuttall-Smith picks the 25 most delicious dishes of the last year

Chiado’s quail with piri piriNota Bene’s soft-shell crab
David Lee’s perfect tempura soft-shell crab, served on a slaw of green mango, cor­iander, scallions, chili, mint and lime—accompanied by cheekily cheapo wooden chopsticks—is classic South Asian street food executed by an all-star chef. $16. 180 Queen St. W., 416-977-6400.


Chiado’s quail with piri piriIndicates photo on page is for this entry
Frango piri piri, the chili-and-vinegar-kicked rotisserie staple, was begging for a makeover. Here chef Manny Vilela uses quail—moist, brooding and just a little pink—set over meaty shiitake risotto and drizzled with sour, spicy, smoky house-made sauce. $15. 864 College St., 416-538-1910.


Langdon Hall’s fennel cappuccino
Chef Jonathan Gushue surrounds a quenelle of confited summer tomatoes in a chilled pool of earthy, anise-edged roasted fennel broth. There are cherry tomatoes, too, orange and red and ripened to near-bursting, and a dusting of crunchy, licorice-y powder made from sumac pollen and foraged autumn olive berries (they’re from a wild local plant; nothing to do with olives). The best soup of the year by a country mile. $14. 1 Langdon Dr., Cambridge, 800-268-1898.


Buca’s fried zucchini flowers
Zucchini flowers are among the most ephemeral ingredients: mid-summer sun salu­tations that are alive with flavour, but delicate as tissue and challenging to cook. Rob Gentile washes the blooms in sparkling water and stuffs them with delicate buffalo milk ricotta, mint and just enough lemon zest, before battering and frying them ultra-light. They’re finished with crunchy sea salt. Summer can’t come soon enough. $7. 604 King St. W., 416-865-1600.

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4 Comments

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  1. The tuna handroll has gone up to $9 on Origins website..

    April 22, 2011 at 5:29 pm | by cupcakez
  2. Classic Aprile …. When something sells well at Origin/CL it goes up in price

    June 10, 2011 at 8:52 am | by TOcooks
  3. small portions at Origins with price increase = boycott

    July 12, 2011 at 1:41 pm | by anon
  4. I’ll second the Octopus and Fava at Enoteca and Noce’s Parpadelle! Both superb.

    July 20, 2011 at 3:20 pm | by Scott

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