Why fiery Korean flavours are getting even hotter
Manhattan’s punk rock chef, David Chang of Momofuku fame, has almost single-handedly turned kimchee into the new salsa. The pungent pickle is everywhere: topping burgers, spiking cocktails—it’s even gracing the odd charcuterie platter. And other elements of Korea’s bold, beguiling—and previously intimidating—flavours have followed kimchee’s march into the mainstream. Here, the top Toronto dishes that deliver a creative Korean kick.
Grilled rib-eye
The dry-aged steak is the purported star of the plate, but the pan-Asian reuben—soft steam bun, juicy corned beef and piquant kimchee—grabs the mic like Kanye West. $38. C5, 100 Queen’s Park, 416-586-7928.
Spicy BouillabaisseThis heady, Seoul-ful broth, turbo-boosted with gochujang (pepper paste) and gochugaru (dried chili), is loaded with shrimp, black cod, scallops and mussels. $20. Koko Share Bar, 81 Yorkville Ave., 416-850-6135.
Braised Pork BellySoy-glazed Berkshire arrives in a kimchee sauce French-kissed with veal stock and butter. Gochujang-dressed cuttlefish and clams add wicked surf to the turf. $15. Lucien, 36 Wellington St. E., 416-504-9990.
Barbecue Short RibKorean barbecue sauce sweetened with Asian pear is the secret to this dish’s succulence. House-made kimchee gives the mashed spuds a hot crunch. $24. Niagara Street Café, 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222.
very tempting to try…but if you are on budget, just visit the Korean Village on Bloor Street West (e.g. Seoul Rest) you can order a meal for C$10.00 (tip included)!!!!!!
June 1, 2010 at 12:40 pm | by kykeTry the new Korea Town of Yonge north of Sheppard for the real Korean feel. I’m sick of Toronto Life neglecting this area for it’s food. Plenty of Korean bars and restaurnts plus Nori Bong (karaoke).
June 2, 2010 at 2:47 pm | by MarkThe ‘Kimchi’ed pears with stilton at Swish By Han on Wellington St is worth a try. Spicy cabbage is given a cool respite thanks to the creaminess of the cheese.
June 3, 2010 at 4:30 pm | by FlotchI was introduced to Korean food quite recently and I LOVE it! Can’t wait to try some more.
June 6, 2010 at 7:59 pm | by SamanthaPlease stop calling it ‘fiery’ – that is lazy prose for small-time food critics with nothing imaginative to say. And it is spelled ‘kimchi’. ‘Kimchee’ is a silly pseudo-phonetic My First Dictionary rendering beloved of goofballs like Joanne Kates.
March 4, 2011 at 1:05 pm | by Larry