The meal starts with a complementary turren of the daily soup, a traditional broth made from simmering various ingredients over a fire for hours. Pictured here is the pork rib and fuzzy gourd soup, but after several visits to John’s, we’ve sampled a spare rib version, with watercress and apricot kernels; an interpretation with winter melon and pork; and even a milky rendition, with fresh fish, tofu and bok choy.