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Toronto Life - The Dish

The latest buzz on restaurants, chefs, bars, food shops and food events. Sign up for the Dish newsletter for weekly updates. Send tips to thedish@torontolife.com

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An afternoon with Chuck Hughes and 19 excitable kids at The Stop’s after-school program

Chuck Hughes leads the cooking class at The Stop’s after-school program (Image: Jenna Marie Wakani)

Yesterday afternoon, Chuck Hughes took a break from promoting his new cookbook, Garde Manger, to join 19 eager kids in a cooking class at The Stop’s after-school program at Wychwood Barns. Upon his arrival, three enthusiastic youngsters took Hughes on a tour of the Stop’s facilities at the barns (the organization was one of Canada’s first food banks and has since expanded into a community hub with a wide-reaching mandate that includes community gardens, food markets and advocacy). Some highlights of Hughes’s kid-led tour included handling compost and worms and ogling the now-in-their-prime seedlings that were about to be shipped out to west-end community gardens. We couldn’t resist tagging along.

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Five things we learned about Toronto’s street food scene from the Globe’s profile of Suresh Doss

Doss at the inaugural Food Truck Eats (Image: Renée Suen)

On Saturday, the Globe and Mail ran a profile of Suresh Doss, the 34-year-old computer systems engineer and publisher of Spotlight Toronto who’s behind Food Truck Eats. Doss’s tireless energy for the cause has some vendors suggesting he may be some kind of god, or at least, in a memorable phrase, “part elephant.” Below, five things we learned about the front lines of Toronto’s street food scene.

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A preview of The Singhampton Project, Michael Stadtländer’s upcoming visual and edible feast at Eigensinn Farm

Landscape chef Michael Stadtländer with landscape artist Jean Paul Ganem at The Circle installation (Image: Renée Suen)

While the city doesn’t want for food-meets-art parties, an upcoming collaborative effort at Eigensinn Farm scheduled for later this summer looks like it will eclipse them all: renowned French landscape artist Jean Paul Ganem and pioneering back-to-the-land chef Michael Stadtländer will be working together to stimulate both mind and palate with The Singhampton Project.

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Five things we learned about sustainable seafood and natural wine from Terroir speakers Barton Seaver and Alice Feiring

Each year, some of the food industry’s most influential minds descend upon Toronto to speak at the Terroir symposium, which takes place today. We had the chance to speak with three of the event’s speakers. On Friday, we brought you a Q&A with chef Ben Shewry. Today, we present five things each that we learned from talking to sustainable seafood champion Barton Seaver and natural wine advocate Alice Feiring.

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Q&A with Ben Shewry: the trailblazing chef of Melbourne’s Attica on telling stories through food

Ben Shewry, executive chef of Melbourne’s Attica (one of Australia’s top restaurants and number 53 on the S. Pellegrino best restaurant’s list), will be in Toronto next week to speak at Terroir, the annual hospitality industry symposium. One of the world’s most innovative chefs, Shewry draws from his varied experiences and childhood memories of New Zealand to build a menu that uses distinctive, eclectic ingredients in a country that doesn’t have a strong culinary heritage. Sherwy is also no stranger to Canada—the chef has travelled throughout the country and has a grandmother from Peterborough. We recently spoke with The Age Good Food Guide’s Chef of the Year 2011 about the stories he tries to tell through his cuisine.

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QUOTED: O&B’s Anthony Walsh on his favourite kitchen prank

We tell the cook to go down to Jump (sister restaurant, downstairs) and get the red lobster gun (a thing that doesn’t exist). The cook will go to Jump and the chefs there will say “oh, no the gun is at Biff’s” (another O&B restaurant, very close by). The cook goes to Biff’s and then they come back to Canoe and they look devastated because they couldn’t find the thing we asked him for.

—Anthony Walsh, the corporate executive chef (i.e. culinary overlord) at Oliver & Bonacini Restaurants, telling Swallow Food’s Kristina Groeger about his favourite way of pranking new chefs and stagiaires. The article, by the way, is illustrated with some truly memorable photos of the chef decked out in full hunting gear. [Swallow Food]

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Centro to celebrate its 25th year with a series of dinners cooked by illustrious alums

It’s only fitting that the birthday bash for a restaurant that describes itself as a spot for “international influential tastemakers, money-makers and scene stealers” would last for several months. To mark its 25th anniversary, Centro is holding an alumni dinner series, featuring seven of the chefs who’ve passed through the place’s doors since it opened. The series’ first instalment is this coming Monday and features Chris McDonald, now at Cava, who did a stint at the Cal-Ital temple in the ’80s. The pretty impressive list of other participating alums: Michael Bonacini (Oliver and Bonacini), Marc Thuet (Thuet Fine Foods), David Lee (Nota Bene), Bruce Woods (Modus), Frank Parhizgar (Frank’s Kitchen) and Jason Carter, who left Centro earlier this year. Check out Centro’s website for more details on the series.

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Gordon Ramsay sues former Montreal partner 

Given that Gordon Ramsay’s temper is the stuff of reality-television legend, we can’t say we’re shocked that he has the legal muscle to back up all that tough talk. The Globe reports that Ramsay has filed a massive lawsuit against Rôtisserie Laurier BBQ, the Montreal restaurant the chef helped rejuvenate before leaving—rather unceremoniously, we might add—last month. According to the Globe, Ramsay is seeking more than $2.7 million: “$2.25 million in lost licence fees through 2016 along with $500,000 in damages for defamation.”  Dish readers might recall that back in February, Ramsay’s public relations people promised that the chef’s legal team “will be watching all comments made publicly extremely carefully,” so it looks like they’re making good on that one. Although Laurier owner Danny Lavy has said that Ramsay was a poor consultant who spent barely any time at the restaurant, Ramsay counters that actually, “he was to be paid $48,214 per month to lend his name, likeness and recipes to the restaurant.” Apparently, both sides are pointing out that the lawsuit goes deeper than some squabbling about a chicken restaurant—Lavy filed a lawsuit last year that had something to do with his license to manufacture Ramsay’s kitchenware in North America (the details are suitably murky). This seems like the final nail in that whole jealous-of-Montreal-for-having-a-Ramsay-restaurant coffin. Read the entire story [Globe and Mail] »

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Two Canadian books short-listed for this year’s James Beard Awards

Yesterday, the James Beard Foundation announced the nominees for its 2012 Book Awards, and the list this year includes two Canadian titles. The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Montrealers Meredith Erickson, Frédéric Morin and David McMillan, which took first place in this year’s Piglet Tournament of Cookbooks, is up for the Cooking from a Professional Point of View category, and Odd Bits, last year’s offal bible by Toronto’s Jennifer McLagan, is up for the Single Subject category. We’d wager the odds on Odd Bits are a bit better than those on Joe Beef, given that the latter is up against Modernist Cuisine (you know, the 2,400-page, 50-pound summation of all known cooking techniques). Also nominated was one-time Toronto son Paul Grieco, who oversaw the wine program at the family restaurant (formal Italian standard bearer La Scala) before decamping to New York, where he’s now the co-owner of Terroir Wine Bar. He’s up for Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional.

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Quoted: David Chang, of Yours Truly, on who’s really Chang 1

I think it’s exciting for the city to have him come here, but at the same time I still think this is my city and I should be Chang 1.

—The “mischievously cute” David Chang, a cook at Yours Truly, joking around with Ivy Knight about Toronto’s impending Chang-off [Swallow Food]

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Toronto’s impending David Chang–off

In last weekend’s New York Times magazine, David Sax wrote a tiny piece about the impending non-feud between David Chang, who’ll be bringing two of his wildly popular Momofuku restaurants to Toronto this year, and David Chang, a chef at Ossington’s super-buzzy Yours Truly (let’s call them Chang 1 and Chang 2, respectively). It turns out, Chang 2 actually staged at Chang 1’s New York restaurant, although Chang1 only vaguely remembers Chang 2. And while Chang 1 promises to play nice with Chang 2 when he comes up to Toronto, he did fire a shot across the bow at another New York superchef making his Hogtown debut: “Daddy Boulud is gonna be in Toronto, too. That’s who we will be sabotaging.” Read the entire story [New York Times] »

(Images: Chang 1, dumbonyc; Chang 2, Renée Suen)

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Top Chef Canada’s Dustin Gallagher to leave Grace after four years

(Image: Food Network Canada/Insight Productions)

Dustin Gallagher, the adorably smiley chef who narrowly missed the finals on season one of Top Chef Canada, is moving on after four years at College Street restaurant Grace—but he’s not headed to another Toronto kitchen just yet. Owner Leslie Gibson told The Dish that Gallagher eventually hopes to open a restaurant of his own, but first plans to spend some time travelling around Europe (in search of inspiration, perhaps?). After interviewing several applicants, Gibson and husband Chris Hoffman have chosen Kevin Castonguay, formerly of Woodlot, to dish up Grace’s homey food. He and Gallagher have been orchestrating the handover for several weeks, and Gallagher will be gone for good in a few days—which means that diners hoping to catch a glimpse of that trademark grin have precious little time to get down to College Street.

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Gordon Ramsay leaves Montreal, gives Torontonians one less reason to be jealous of the city

(Image: Dave Pullig)

Torontonians have never had trouble finding reasons to envy Montrealers: cheaper rents, ubiquitous perfect croissants, cold beer at corner stores. In 2010, we added “having your very own Gordon Ramsay restaurant” to the list, when the perpetually potty-mouthed chef announced he was getting on board with Montreal restaurant Laurier BBQ. Sure, our envy was mitigated when the opening of the restaurant was marred by a fire alarmNow we learn that Laurier owner Danny Lavy has ended his business relationship with Ramsay, who he says acted more like an infrequent visitor than the consultant he was supposed to be (the Gazette says Ramsay originally wanted to be a partner, but he didn’t want to front the cash). Ramsay’s public relations people deny this, and say that “lawyers…will be watching all comment made publicly extremely carefully.” Lavy also said that despite Ramsay’s role as a consultant—and the fact that he was almost never in town—his team still acted like he owned the place. Two restaurateurs trading barbs and quarreling over operations? This sounds like a job for… oh, nevermind. Read the entire story [Montreal Gazette] »

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Check out some chefs behaving badly as they ham it up at a photo shoot for Terroir 2012

Terroir, the hospitality industry symposium, brings chefs, wine and food experts, restaurateurs and members of the food media together for one day each year. This time around the program is centered on the theme of the “New Radicals” (no, not those ones): the new generation of chefs who might be conventionally trained, but are more collaborative than their forebears and more than happy to set up shop in unconventional spaces. Attendees this year will be greeted with a unique Manchu Wok–style lunch buffet catered by a team of mainly Toronto chefs. The cheeky contemporary interpretations of pop culture classics will use local, seasonal and foraged ingredients: think sweet-and-sour confit chicken balls and General Tso sweetbreads. A couple weeks back, we sat in on the “Wok and Roll” photo shoot for the event, which included Jason Bangerter (Luma, O&B Canteen), Matty Matheson (Parts and Labour) and Charlotte Langley (Café Belong) among others, and asked which Canadian-style Chinese food item they’ve planned to rework. Mostly, though, it was just an excuse to watch some of our favourite chefs engaged in a little food fight.

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QUOTED: Galen Weston on just what he thinks of the competition

Farmers’ markets are great….One day they’re going to kill some people though.

—Loblaw executive chairman Galen Weston at the Canadian Food Summit, reflecting on the importance of food inspections (to be fair, he later added, “I’m just saying that to be dramatic though”) [Toronto Star]

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