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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

All stories by Signe Langford

The Dish

Deathwatch

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Prince Edward County cheesemaker Fifth Town suspends operations

Fifth Town’s retail shop (Image: Sutha Kamal)

Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Company, the much-loved artisanal Prince Edward County cheese company, has wound down its operations—for now at least. Founder Petra Kassun-Mutch made the announcement on Facebook:

“Over the past two years, I watched the colour slowly drain out of something that was special [and] innovative and [that] pushed the envelope on several important environmental and social fronts–and something I felt was possible because of all the things others had taught me along the way. Now [there’s] nothing left to drain. The doors have closed on FT. My gratitude to all the staff, present and former, and the community who participated in making it happen over the past four years, and a special thanks to those who tried to tough it out in hopes of a better next phase. Even with doors closed, and whether you loved it or were of the ‘Told you so’ crowd, we together created something positive that will, in spite of its physical closing, endure for years to come.”

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Brad Long to shutter Veritas; Betty’s owners to move in

Brad Long at last year’s Toronto Taste (Image: Renée Suen)

After almost five years, chef Brad Long is quietly handing over Veritas, his “local fare” restaurant on King Street East, to the owners of neighbouring bar Betty’s. Noting the lack of drama in the restaurant’s closing, Long tells us, “It’s not a very sexy story, sorry. But my landlord and partner asked me to sell so they can do something else, and they’ve always been great to me, so I said, ‘Sure, no problem.’ ” Long was quick to add, “It’s not like I don’t have enough to do.” By which he means, of course, his bustling Café Belong at the Evergreen Brick Works. “I’ll definitely be concentrating on the café—it’s going crazy, and as far as I’m concerned, it still needs my full attention.” But it seems one business is not enough for Long: “There are certainly other projects going on but I don’t think any will be ready for quite a while.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: The Commissary, Leslieville’s new laid-back lunch spot

The salvaged barn wood is courtesy Urban Tree Salvage

The Commissary, a new Leslieville lunch spot, bucks the healthy hippie fare and burgers that dominate the area and opts instead for dishes like lobster bisque or shrimp flatbread pizza. When Sophie shut its doors, the Commissary’s four partners moved in and started the redesign, taking the 32-seat space from stark white and acid green to earthy warmth in russet, with exposed brick and reclaimed barn boards. Commissary chefs Andrew Bridgman and Rod Dannewald designed their menu around an unmet niche. “We asked the neighbourhood what it wanted,” says Bridgman, “and they said there’s nowhere to have lunch.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Edulis, Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth’s reinvention of Niagara Street Café

(Images: Signe Langford)

After more than a decade in the neighbourhood, the well-loved Niagara Street Café has been reborn as Edulis. The restaurant’s Twitter bio says, “Crafted with love,” and while the whole love-as-actual-ingredient thing is surely overdone, it rings true in this case. Everything about the place, from husband-and-wife owners Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth, is an ode to some version of love or another: love of family, love of Europe and of course, love of mushrooms—the place takes its name from the Latin for porcini.

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The Dish

Locavoracious

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Dan and Kristin Donovan of Hooked launch Canada’s first Slow Fish chapter

“The power we have as consumers is tremendous!” says Hooked’s Kristin Donovan (Image: Signe Langford)

Good, Clean and Fair. That’s the battle cry of Slow Food International, the Italy-based organization with a mandate to enlighten everyone to the joys and importance of real (i.e., non-industrial) food and give proper respect to the unsung heroes who produce the stuff. Sure, some dismiss it as a sort of conscience-assuaging supper club for the well-to-do, but the group, founded in 1986 by Carlo Petrini, does have a mandate to give back to the community at its core. Recently, Slow Food extended its reach to include food taken from the sea as well. Slow Fish is about supporting artisanal fishing and introducing eaters to neglected and often delicious fish species, while asking them to think about the state of the planet’s waters—and Toronto’s Hooked is leading the charge.

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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L.A.B., College Street’s molecular kitchen, takes its last breath

(Image: Signe Langford)

Living and breathing no more, L.A.B., the often-experimental College Street restaurant, shuttered last week after two years. The reason? It turns out owner and chef Howard Dubrovsky has a mean case of creative ADD—that and, he admits, the College Street address might not have been the best business decision he’s ever made. “I just don’t think that end of College was the right spot for this concept. I can see a sushi place or something doing amazingly there, but it just wasn’t the right place for me.”

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Niagara Street Café’s new owners Tobey Nemeth and Michael Caballo to relaunch it as Edulis

Edulis owners Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth, spied this weekend at Hooked (Image: Signe Langford)

We already reported that Anton Potvin, until recently owner of the Niagara Street Café, had found buyers for his much-loved locale. Now we can tell you who they are: husband-and-wife chefs Tobey Nemeth and Michael Caballo, who flew into Toronto last week to sign the paperwork and flew out again the next day. “We have to go to Vancouver to pick up our stuff, but we’ll be back in a week and we’re really excited to be back in Toronto,” Nemeth told us. “We tried Vancouver, but we didn’t love it. I think Toronto has the most exciting dining scene in Canada and this is where we want to be for the rest of our lives.”

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: McGugan’s, a friendly new Scottish pub on Gerrard Street East

Torontonians have earned the right to be a tad cynical about the opening of yet another ye olde Irish/Scottish/English pub, with their mini-kilt-clad babes, sweet potato fries and calamari rings. But Ted and Mary (née McGugan) Koutsogiannopoulos, along with executive chef Bryan Burke, are hoping to bring something a little more authentic with McGugan’s, their new Scottish tavern on Gerrard Street. The trio, which is also behind Hank’s, Wine Bar and Great Burger Kitchen, secured the place late last summer, and has been sweating away to get it ready for launch ever since (indeed, Burke and Koutsogiannopulis did the woodwork themselves). We dropped in to check it out.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Bloke and 4th, King West’s newest big, shiny resto-lounge

What was once M:Brgr is now the 7,000-square-foot, 400-seat Bloke and 4th (Image: Signe Langford)

At the end of May 2011, the Toronto outpost of Montreal’s M:Brgr shut its doors after a very brief run (perhaps they didn’t sell enough $100 burgers). Now that space at King and Spadina has been taken over by five first-time restaurateurs, all in their 20s, each from a different field and all exuding a preternatural confidence about their new venture. In short order, they took an upmarket burger joint and turned it into a stylish 400-seat resto-lounge: Bloke and 4th.

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The Dish

Opening

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Introducing: Pachuco, the new Danforth Mexican restaurant from the sisters behind Embrujo Flamenco

Pachuco is tucked away underneath Embrujo Flamenco on the Danforth

As defined by Urban Dictionary, a pachuco is “a Chicano or Mexican guy back in the 1930s to 1950s that dressed in zoot suits.” As defined by the Fernandez sisters, Jais, Eren and Mali, it’s a subterranean cantina serving authentic Mexican food with a modern twist. The sisters arrived in Toronto at various times over the last few decades, but ultimately, their shared love of food and entrepreneurial nature led them in 2002 to open Embrujo Flamenco, the Danforth tapas bar with live dancing, and Café Madrid in the cellar, which they’ve now transformed into Pachuco.

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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The Real Jerk, Riverside’s cult favourite Jamaican restaurant, gets an eviction notice

(Image: The Real Jerk)

The iconic smiling sun that’s shone down on the corner of Queen Street East and Broadview Avenue for the last 22 years is about to set—and soon. Over Christmas, the building that houses The Real Jerk was sold to Bill Mandelbaum of Buckingham Properties, and rumour has it the restaurant is slated for demolition to make way for yet another condo development. Sure, it always seemed a little cheesy, and it stuck out a little in dreary grey wintertime, but the gaudy corrugated tin mural and beaming sun (the latter painted by Jamaican artist Tony Green) is a true Riverside landmark.

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The Dish

Deathwatch

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Danforth fixture The Cook’s Place to pack it in after 14 years

(Image: The Cook’s Place)

After supplying Toronto with coveted Japanese knives, top-of-the-line cookware and innumerable last-minute foodie gifts for 14 years, Barbara Ackerman, owner of The Cook’s Place, is shuttering her Danforth Avenue fixture for good in order to spend more time with her five-month-old grandchild. “Running this shop has made me a part of so many families in the neighbourhood,” she told us. “What I sell is about feeding the family, and to be able to share that with my customers has been incredible.”

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The Dish

Bottoms Up

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Still Waters now selling small-batch vodka out of its Concord distillery (with whisky on the way in a few years)

(Images: Still Waters Distillery)

Every now and then, a lovely little crack opens up in Ontario’s booze monopoly: a brewpub here, a wine kiosk inside a grocery store there, the occasional off-site winery boutique. Last month, the GTA gained yet another new venue for hooch hounds hoping to circumvent official channels: Still Waters, a local spirits distillery in Concord that makes and sells its product on-site.

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The Dish

Locavoracious

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Nine members of Toronto’s backyard-chicken underground on the special bond between man and bird

On November 30, councillors Joe Mihevc and Mary-Margaret McMahon took on the considerable challenge of trying to overturn nearly three decades of city hall opposition to backyard hens. They didn’t quite succeed. (Their motion to study the issue was referred to the municipal licensing and standards committee for consideration in February.) With his trademark zeal for kindergarten humour, Councillor Giorgio Mammoliti opined, “Now we’re going to have thousands of chickens crossing the road and we’re going to have neighbours fighting against neighbours because they don’t want to hit the chickens.” But what Mammoliti and his ilk don’t understand is that urban hen keeping didn’t really go away when it was outlawed in 1983. It just went underground—into garages, sheds and secluded corners of backyards. The hopes of these renegade urban hen keepers are now running high, riding Toronto’s ever-growing wave of locavorism. Here, nine of those rebels, who break the law every day, talk about that other love that dare not speak its name: that between man and hen.

First up, Jill and Sunshine »

The Dish

From the Print Edition

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Meet the Flockers: where to find the best-fed, best-bred, best-tasting turkeys in the Toronto area

Rare Bird

(Image: John Cullen)

We’re a city obsessed with eating local, and when it comes to planning the biggest dinner of the year, we’re even more devoted. The ubiquitous Butterball, with its yellow and blue shrink wrap, used to provide a comforting barrier between us and the realization that our bird was once, in fact, a bird—with feathers, a beak and a snood (the floppy nose appendage of unknown use). Nowadays, that packaging evokes images of factory farm torture. So we’ll happily pay premium prices to know our turkey was raised in a pesticide-free pasture within a couple hundred kilometres of the city, where it munched organic feed and cavorted with other dignified turkeys. If it happens to descend from a 50-year-old Saskatchewan-born flock and come with certified ancestry papers, Yahtzee! We’ll pay even more. And it’s worth it. Heritage breeds like the Bourbon Red, the Bronze and the Narragansett have darker meat (the Broad-Breasted Whites in grocery stores have been genetically modified for Dolly Parton–like proportions) and fuller flavour. All of which means when you’re lying on the couch in a tryptophan-induced torpor, the only thing you’ll feel guilty about is that second helping of stuffing.

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