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Toronto Life - The Wire

The comprehensive index of every blog post, magazine story and restaurant review that appears on Torontolife.com

All stories by Mary Luz Mejia

The Dish

Deathwatch

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Roncesvalles staple Granowska’s Bakery to serve its last paczki at the end of the month

Granowska’s has presided over the corner of Roncesvalles and Fern for 39 years (Image: Joey deVilla)

On the morning of Thursday, June 13, 1972, after three straight days of baking, Elizabeth Klodas and her mother Maria opened the doors to Granowska’s Bakery on Roncesvalles, which they named after the family bakery they left behind in Poland. “That first day, we sold out in five hours,” she told us. “We were both so happy but then started crying when we realized we had to start baking all over again! We thought we had baked enough to last the weekend!” Now, after nearly 40 years in business, the bakery will be closing its doors for good at the end of the month.

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The Dish

Caffeine High

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Some of Toronto’s best coffee is coming to Yonge and Bloor

The Junction’s Crema Coffee Company, one of Toronto’s best places to go for espresso, has long had one drawback: it’s off the beaten track, making it more of a local hangout than a daily grind. Well, that’s all about to change. In March, the much-lauded java dealer will be opening a second location that will share space with Freshii, a salad and wrap lunch spot, at 53 Bloor Street East. “We share a common clientele, we have non-competing products, and it’s a small footprint in a high-traffic area,” says owner Geoff Polci, who also hinted that a third location might be in the offing. For now, though, he is focused on getting the Bloor East order-and-go location open by early March. “It’s a black hole,” he said of his bustling new ’hood, “completely devoid of decent coffee.”  For now, that is.

The Dish

Opening

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Just Opened: My Place: A Canadian Pub

His place: Brad Long at the bar of his spanking new Canadian pub (Photo by Mary )

His place: Brad Long at the bar of his spanking new Canadian pub (Photo by Mary Luz Mejia )

Well before it served its first burger, Brad Long’s new restaurant was getting chatter. At 18,000 square feet, capacity for over 700, a big-name chef, four floors, a huge patio and a Bloor West Village location, the project was an odd confluence of factors, and Toronto foodies were hotly debating it. But Long, his right-hand man Dave Billington and co-owner Randy Metcalfe seemed deaf to it all, slowly converting the former Billy Bob’s Bistro and Saloon into My Place: A Canadian Pub. The restaurant has been opening in stages since September 2, with its final phase—a sports bar—unveiled last night.

“It was never meant to be a gastropub,” explains Long as he describes the restaurant’s transformation. Gone is the funhouse feel of Billy Bob’s, replaced by a soothing palette in the dining room and a more vibrant red-and-black scheme in the main floor pub. The decor is “logistics based,” he says, noting that he preferred to invest in a brand new kitchen than in design—in other words, he wants to attract diners for the food, not the beauty.

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The Dish

Opening

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Just Opened: Local Kitchen and Wine Bar

Friends in food: Michael and Fabio at the counter of Local and Wine Bar (Photo by Mary)

Friends in food: Michael Sangregorio and Fabio Bondi at the counter of Local Kitchen and Wine Bar (Photo by Mary Luz Mejia)

It takes guts to open a fledgling restaurant on a Parkdale strip during Toronto’s recent civil servant strike and this decidedly un-rosy economic era, but neither of these obstacles stopped lifelong friends Fabio Bondi and Michael Sangregorio from breathing life into a 29-seater they call Local Kitchen and Wine Bar. With Bondi manning the stoves (he trained in Umbria at the much-lauded Il Postale) and Sangregorio working the front of the house, the dynamic duo has done the near-impossible. “We finally did it!” beamed Sangregorio on the second night, as customers started drifting in.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Rotten timing: The strike and the city’s restaurants

Pile it on: A mountain garbage continues to grow at a temporary dumping site (Photo by Martin Reis)

Pile it on: A mountain garbage continues to grow at the Christie Pits dumping site (Photo by Martin Reis)

Restaurant owners aren’t exactly singing “Solidarity Forever” these days. With such services as garbage collection and permit processing halted during the city worker strike, restaurateurs are getting increasingly frustrated. Carmine Accogli, chef-owner of The Big Ragu, is fuming after contending with lineups at temporary garbage transfer stations. “Other than the city worker’s contentious behaviour regarding what’s right for them and disregarding the rights of everyone else, they’re not offering us much—except filth in the streets,” he says. “Summerlicious this year is going to stink.” And he means that literally.

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The Dish

Opening

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Milagro: Movin’ on uptown

milagroWhen brothers Andrés and Arturo Anhalt opened Milagro restaurant on Mercer Street, they did it to offer authentic Mexican cuisine to a city hooked on burritos, nachos and other dishes of the Tex-Mex persuasion. Torontonians, it turned out, were receptive to their ceviches and mole sauces—so much so that a mere three years later, Milagro has opened a second location, on Yonge, north of Lawrence.

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The Dish

Restauran-TO

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Mark McEwan protégé to open new Italian restaurant

Rob Gentile will open Buca's doors in late May (Photo by Mary Luz Mejia)

Rob Gentile will open Buca in late May (Photo by Mary Luz Mejia)

Mark McEwan protégé Rob Gentile has left the fold of his mentor’s Yorkville restaurant, One, to open a place of his own later this spring. The former executive sous chef proudly declares that Buca will be “unico” in a city that’s fixated on pizza and pasta. “Our focus will be on artisanal techniques from bread-making to the salumeria curing method. It’s more or less sticking to the simplicity of what Italian food should be,” he says.

Inspired by Italian enotecas, Gentile created a menu that reflects his Italian roots with such dishes as striped clams stewed with tomato and cured pork; pasta alla carbonara prepared tableside with farm-fresh eggs and house-cured guanciale; and house-made salumi. A glass-enclosed room will showcase the curing meats, many of which the chef prepares from family recipes.

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