Such is chef David Neinstein’s dedication to barbecue that even the fluffy pancakes at Barque come with meat—in this case, rich and intensely smoky pulled duck leg. The inspiring accompaniments are a tart wild blueberry compote and creamy chèvre. 299 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-532-7700.
A crispy patty of fried plantains and two perfect, soft-fried eggs form the bottom and top of the huevos rancheros at Origin. Inside: almost-crispy bacon, black beans in pork fat, and peppery guacamole. A fresh salsa cuts through the rich creation. 107 King St. E., 416-603-8009.
Start a Cuban brunch at Delux with fresh doughnuts, followed by duck confit picadillo—a potato hash studded with shredded duck, red pepper, dried sultanas, capers and olives, all topped with a pair of sunny-side-up eggs—served with hearty plantain tostones. 92 Ossington Ave., 416-537-0134.
Célestin offers excellent pissaladières—flatbreads that are distant cousins to pizza. The thin, crisp base is smothered with intensely caramelized onions and topped with figs, creamy goat cheese, toasted pine nuts and peppery arugula. 623 Mount Pleasant Rd., 416-544-9035.
Saving Grace is probably the sole hipster brunch spot to offer Vietnamese iced coffee. The surprisingly full-flavoured corn-tortilla quesadilla comes stuffed with wild rice and topped with a spicy-sweet chipotle fig chutney. 907 Dundas St. W., 416-703-7368.
(Image: The huevos rancheros at Origin, by John Cullen)