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Weekly Lunch Pick: a fried fish feast on King West

The fish basket at The One That Got Away (Image: Andrew Brudz)

Since it opened last November, The One That Got Away has been serving simple sandwiches, wraps and tacos (only available after 2 p.m. for now) to King West workers and nighttime revellers. The cafeteria-style dining room features the rustic wood and kitschy artifacts ubiquitous in new restaurants, but the classic fish ’n’ chips is hard to come by downtown. The fish basket ($15) is a deep-fried dream for indecisive seafood lovers, piled high on old-timey newspaper-print wax paper and served on a little metal tray. Battered shrimp are golden and crisp on the outside, plump and juicy inside. Calamari are coated in a kicky spice mix, while the haddock is lightly battered so as to not overpower the light, flaky flesh. The scallops add a little sweetness to the savoury mix. Crisp, thick-cut fries benefit from a hit of malt vinegar, and a side of crunchy coleslaw is a cool complement to the delicious heart attack of a meal.

The cost: $19.50, including tax and a Pop Shoppe cream soda ($2.25).

The time: 35 minutes, with less than a 10-minute wait for our order.

The One That Got Away World-Famous Fish House, 581 King St. W., 647-351-6153, totga.ca.