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Introducing: Small Town Food Co., a cozy Parkdale pub with big-city polish

Introducing: Small Town Food Co.

Name: Small Town Food Co.
Contact Info: 1263 Queen St. W., @smalltownfoodco
Neighbourhood: Parkdale
Owners: Wrongbar manager Stephen McKeon and former Drake Hotel bartender Cameron Hutton
Chef: Tallis Voakes, the former executive chef at Paintbox in Regent Park

The Food: Updates on British pub standards, like Scotch eggs wrapped in pork rillettes and a spin on fish and chips made with rare panko-crusted tuna and potato chips. Voakes isn’t afraid to cook with unconventional proteins: a traditional Bolognese is made with rabbit instead of beef, and deep-fried alligator bites sub for ordinary fried chicken. A Sunday roast dinner is in the works.

The Drinks: Fun cocktails made with spice-infused liquors, sodas and bitters. The tight wine list was designed by lauded sommelier Anton Potvin.

The Place: The owners’ goal was to create a polished, urban space with the warmth of a small-town tavern. The candlelit room is cozy but cool with a big curved bar, white subway tiles and pops of cherry-red. The open kitchen lets customers ogle their food as it’s prepared.

The Numbers:
• 30 seats
• 24 hours to prepare confit-style pork belly simmered in duck fat
• 7 days to infuse bourbon with cinnamon and clove for the restaurant’s signature Small Town Sour
• 1 wrought-iron lamppost standing in the middle of the room

Our Introducing series explores newly opened restaurants, bars and shops throughout the GTA
This is not a review.
Toronto Life’s starred reviews can be found in their entirety in our
Restaurant Guide. Got restaurant news, tips or rumours? Send them to thedish@torontolife.com

 

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