Chef Nuit Regular has acquired an ardent fan base over the years, first at Sukhothai, her takeout Thai spot in Regent Park, and then at Khao San Road in the Entertainment District. Devotees will surely follow Regular to Sabai Sabai, her most polished restaurant yet, done up with a swank, dimly lit bar, dark wood floors and cozy two-tops. The food, though good, can occasionally veer into too-sweet territory, like a tom yum soup whose cloying broth overwhelms the tender shrimp. The crunchy papaya salad delivers a perfect prick of chili heat, though it’s also a bit too sugary. The best dish of the meal is a savoury red curry with tendrils of intensely garlicky morning glory, a sensational bitter green that goes great with a bottle of Singha.
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