(Image: Emma McIntyre)
½ Rosedale’s new oyster bar is all sideways glances, double kisses and how-do-you-know-so-and-so’s. The seafood-centred pub standards are almost as good as the people watching. A black-edged slab of toast supports steamed mussels sprinkled with finely diced sweet tomatoes, chorizo and chilies. It’s a satisfying start, followed by seared scallops perched on buttery brussels sprouts and a rich squash purée, with a dollop of bacon jam to tie the whole thing together. The menu’s only blunder is a salt-deprived black cod fillet in a bland bonito broth. As the room reaches a Friday night fever pitch, the service cracks: dirty dishes are ignored, riesling is served at room temperature, and every baked oyster in this oyster house is sold out—the consequence of being the neighbourhood’s latest hot spot.
Tags
First Review, John and Sons, New Restaurant Reviews, Rosedale, seafood, Toronto