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The Critic: Claudio Aprile, the chef behind the Origin empire, takes on the burbs

The Origin Empire: Claudio Aprile

From left: The 12,000-square-foot Origin at Bayview Village is twice as big and half as hectic as its downtown counterparts; Claudio Aprile joins the club of ambitious restaurant imperialists; Tuna hand roll with shiso, puffed amaranth and a pot of miso mayo

Origin 1 star ½
107 King St. E., 416-603-8009
Origin Liberty 1 star ½
171 East Liberty St., 416-649-4567
Origin North 2 star
2901 Bayview Ave., 416-479-8833

Inside the door of Origin North is a 1930s Velocette, the type of low-slung, insectoid motorcycle that officers rode during the war. Claudio Aprile, the restaurant’s owner and chef, parks it beside the reception desk. The bike is a statement: cool has arrived in the suburbs

Origin North opened in June, in a two-storey building in the parking lot of the Bayview Village mall. It’s the third of Aprile’s Origin restaurants and the first outside the downtown. Other chefs have successfully ventured into the land of eight-lane thoroughfares: Mark McEwan opened Fabbrica, his rustic (though decidedly posh) Italian place at the Shops at Don Mills, in 2010. But the move is a bigger deal for Aprile, whom I associate with the tattoos-and-’tude chef culture of downtown. Six years ago, when he opened Colborne Lane, he entranced the city with the tricks of molecular gastronomy, a cooking style that’s as much about ideas (he’d concoct complex dishes out of only white ingredients) as showmanship (he’d freeze ice cream tableside with liquid nitrogen). With Susur Lee distracted by a U.S. expansion, Aprile grabbed the title of Toronto’s most talked-about philosopher-chef.

Then came the recession; liquid nitrogen lost its novelty, and Aprile, like every other fancy cook in town, rebranded for diners on tightened budgets. In 2010, he opened his first Origin restaurant on King East, around the corner from Colborne Lane (which he closed last winter, when he finally admitted he couldn’t spare the time). He seemed to believe he was doing the city a favour: at Origin, he said, he’d apply the standards of fine dining to casual food, as if our only other options were Milestones and Montana’s.

He almost pulls it off. Origin’s menu is as varied as a mall food court. The idea, nice in theory, is that the restaurant, like its patrons, is comfortably multicultural. He divides his dishes into categories like “snacks,” “hot” and “chilled” instead of into straightforward courses, and the table is encouraged to share. Last time I visited, on one of the summer’s few rainless nights, my dinner companion and I sat on the fern-shrouded patio and ordered a Bangkok steak salad and a plate of fresh pappardelle. Each dish was perfect on its own—especially the nam jim–dressed flank steak, which balanced the sweetness of fried shallots and crumbled peanuts with the funky pong of fish sauce—but not in tandem. Same goes for the Yucatán-style lime-tomato soup and the hoisin-sauced duck wrapped in a tortilla, or the coconut milk and lobster ceviche and the crumbled chorizo and fries. The flavours and textures don’t mesh, yet when we asked the server if we should limit ourselves to one region of dishes, he sneered as if we’d just praised apartheid.

From the start, Aprile envisioned the first Origin as a prototype to be expanded around the city. His second location, deep in the new condo district of Liberty Village, opened last year. It’s more nightclubby, to suit the neighbours. The cavernous room is dimly lit by a constellation of Edison bulbs and, with its polished concrete floors and vintage metal stools, brings to mind a steampunk villain’s lair. A large bar takes up nearly a quarter of the space—it’s the sort of restaurant that puts as much emphasis on food as on wallop-to-the-head cocktails, like the Longhouse George, a rye concoction laced with chocolate bitters and apple liqueur.

Liberty’s menu is nearly identical to the King location’s, though with more emphasis on trendy Mexican food. I especially liked my pork belly tostada, a messy tower of smoky meat, guac, black beans and a fried egg. On a recent Saturday night, the place only filled up after 9. The same type of young, on-the-make professionals who usually fill the King Street Origin appeared, plus tables of dolled-up women gathering for a bite before heading to the clubs, and guys with tortoiseshell glasses and twirlable moustaches. What I hadn’t expected (and neither had the flustered servers) was the swarm of red Toronto FC jerseys—a game had let out at the nearby BMO Field, and despite another loss, these fans were determined to have fun. You can see why I had doubts that such a peculiarly downtown creation would survive in a suburban mall parking lot.