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Best New Restaurants 2011

number 6 Frank’s Kitchen

A proper French-Italian restaurant flouts norms in club-clogged Little Italy

Oysters at Frank’s KitchenOn first glance at the menu, it’s hard to believe there’s a serious chef in charge. There’s shrimp cocktail, oysters Rockefeller, and chicken supreme—every second offering sounds decades out of style. But chef-owner Frank Parzighar’s genius is in the execution: he packs enough imagination and integrity onto each plate to leave even the most trend-obsessed foodies frothing for more. His bread plate, stacked with focaccia and buttery brioche boules, all made in-house, is the first surprise; the amuse-bouche (on College Street!) quickly follows. The elk loin (not everything here is unfashionable) is expertly seared and comes wrapped in melting foie gras and truffles. There’s also fantastic St. Jacobs pork three ways (Parzighar selects the pigs at the slaughterhouse and butchers them himself). Those oysters, though a cliché, are blanketed under super-fresh spinach and dreamy hollandaise, and just barely baked so they still retain their straight-from-the-salt-chuck tang. They’re classic, but still utterly of the moment—a delicious reminder of why old favour­ites were just called favourites once.

588 College St., 416-516-5861.next page

 

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