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David Lawrason’s Weekly Wine Pick: the perfect late-summer pinot

Weekly Wine PickDomaine Parent 2010 Pinot Noir Bourgogne

$19.95 | Burgundy, France | 90 Points
With one foot in autumn and the other still in summer, meal choices are starting to go through the usual seasonal transition, which is why I suggest this light, versatile pinot noir from Burgundy. Domaine Parent is one of the legendary producers of the Cotes d’Or, responsible for some of the region’s greatest and most famous wines. This basic “Bourgogne” may be low on the status (and price) totem pole, but sourced from 30-year-old vines, it delivers honest, complex red burgundy, and is a very good value.

The taste: It pours pale, ruby garnet. Expect a fairly generous and complex nose of rhubarb, sour cherry, peppery spice and very light smoke. It’s nicely smooth and poised—not as edgy as many basic pinots—but still has a grip and a fairly tannic finish. The length is very good.

How to drink it: It’s young, and will benefit from at least 30 minutes in a decanter. It will match effortlessly to most poultry, game fowl or pork tenderloin, whether grilled or roasted. Salmon or trout will work too, as well as mushroom-based pasta or risotto. Even a charcuterie plate with nice semi-firm cheeses would go well. If the room temperature (or deck) is too hot, rest the decanter on a bed of ice before serving. Of course, you could also cellar this for up to three years.

Arriving September 1. Vintages.  LCBO 597971