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Lawrason On Wine

March Archive

Niagara Winemakers Choose Their Best

Posted on March 5, 2007

Wine of the Week
Thirty Bench 2005 Wine Makers Riesling **** ($18.15, 24133)
The top scoring white at the Cuvée Wine Awards announced Saturday in Niagara. It signals a rebound for this small Beamsville Bench winery now in the hands of Peller Estates. A very good vintage, old vines and new enthusiasm and talent from winemaker Natalie Reynolds have produced a vital riesling showing New World boldness with ripe peach-pineapple fruit, a touch of petrol and mouthwatering lime-like acidity. Plus Germanic finesse in a touch of sweetness. Also won Riesling class at Cuvée. A smattering of bottles remain in Vintages stores—check at www.lcbo.com. Also try Vineyards wine stores in the GTA.

Gallo Reflections

Posted on March 12, 2007

Wine of the Week
Gallo Family 2005 Sierra Valley Merlot *** ($8.15)
Nicely done for eight dollars. Mid-merlot with a shy nose and some lack of fruit depth but perfect berry ripeness nicely embellished by vanilla and back ground clove. A touch of tobacco and earthiness as well. Best now to 2009. The label change on this vintage emphasizes the family rather than founders Ernest and Julio.

Tetra Paks: The Good, The Bad and The Gaudy

Posted on March 19, 2007

Wine of the Week
Lizard Flat 2005 Chardonnay Verdleho *** Australia (20610, $13.15/1L)
What I expect from a Tetra Pak—a lively, fresh and simple white wine to take on a summer picnic or fishing expedition. The high acid verdelho grape is key to its vitality. Shows clean, almost floral lemony, kiwi and pineapple fruit in a light, crisp yet slightly sweet texture. Finish thin but it is appealing. I have tasted this twice; impressed both times. I have also tasted the companion Lizard Flat 2005 Merlot twice and found one box dull and somewhat oxidative, the other quite good.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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