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Lawrason On Wine

July Archive

Aboard the Tasting Treadmill

Posted on July 3, 2007

Wine of the Week
Antinori 2003 Villa Antinori ($24.10, 88 points), Tuscany
Tasted three times within the past three weeks, this old standby on the LCBO general list has subtly changed recently, and, in this ripe vintage at least, the change is all for the better. Formerly made as a Chianti Classico under Italian regulation, it moves to the broader IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) designation which allows cheaper sangiovese grapes to be sourced outside the Classico zone, and allows a higher proportion of non-traditional grapes like cabernet, merlot and syrah. It still comes across as authentic Tuscan red however, with ripe red cherry, currant, cedar and tobacco flavours. The change is more textural, softer and richer, with comforting warmth and fine tannin. Very good length as well. Ready to enjoy now but should hold well through 2010.

Heat-Busting Bargain Bubbly

Posted on July 10, 2007

Wine of the Week
Jacob’s Creek NV Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut ($13.95, 88 points, 562991)
South Eastern Australia
A chardonnay pinot noir blend in the Champagne tradition, this was among my favourites when tasted blind in the under $25 International Value Wine Awards in Calgary last month. Not nearly as tropical, soft and sweet as you might expect from Australia. Very Champagne-like bouquet is lightly toasty and biscuity, with apple-pear, lemon fruit and chalk dust minerality. It’s mid-weight, firm and dry with a bead of tart refreshing acidity that lights up the wine.

Beaujolais BBQ

Posted on July 18, 2007

Wine of the Week
Jadot 2006 Combe Aux Jacques Beaujolais-Villages ($16.95, 89 points, 7682)
The new vintage gushes gamay charm, and yes, elegance. Lovely sweet aroma black cherry-raspberry fruit in fresh cream with gentle pepper and underbrush/berry patch nuances. Medium bodied, rounded and fruity with a tart juiciness on the finish. Very good length. The 2006 should be arriving anytime. If you see the 2005 on the shelf grab it anyway—slightly bigger, drinking very well. Vintages Essential.

The Extraordinary Peter Gago

Posted on July 25, 2007

Wine of the Week
Penfolds 2005 Thomas Hyland Shiraz, South Australia ($19.95, 89 points 611210)
I tasted this new vintage, just arriving as a Vintages Essential, alongside winemaker Peter Gago during a recent trade tasting of Penfolds 2007 releases. Very youthful, solidly built yet quite elegant for $20. Reserved, complex nose of cedar, mint, blackberry, clove and graphite. Dense, firm structure, excellent length. Some tannic bitterness, so age it a couple of years. Best 2009 to 2012.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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