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Lawrason On Wine

April Archive

Gone Fishin'

Posted on April 2, 2007

David is currently away. Please stay tuned for his next post.

Fielding's Finest

Posted on April 2, 2007

Wine of the Week
Fielding Estate 2006 Chardonnay Musqué ($15.95, Vintages 37879, score 88 points*)
Fielding has gained quite a reputation for its zesty, fragrant, floral aromatic whites. From a particularly fragrant clone of chardonnay, this is intentionally off-dry, yet very good lime-like acidity works to balance it out. Very lifted lavender, lime, tangerine and green apple and melon nose, with flavours staying focused through a very long finish. Chill it down a bit and enjoy on the deck this summer.

Sushi Time

Posted on April 11, 2007

Wine of the Week
Oroya 2005
Spain, $13.95, Vintages April 14, #25775
(score 86)
Created by Spanish giant Freixnet, this seemingly simple dry white was put together from native Spanish varieties —airen (60%), macabeo (30%) and muscat (10%)—specifically to match with sushi, as spelled out on the label both in English and Japanese. It's rather innocuous when sipped solo, with vague floral, melon and citrus flavours set in a slim, dry yet harmonious frame. Well integrated acidity and alcohol forms the bedrock of the wine and the switch that turns it on is sushi, as discovered below. It really works.

Fair California

Posted on April 17, 2007

Wine of the Week
Beringer 2003 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, California
$40.15, Vintages Essential, 3525830, score 91
Collectors take note! The small, verdant Knights Valley, tucked in the hills between the Napa and Alexander Valleys, has always rendered very fragrant cabernet. Beringer’s historic heavy oak hand has stolen some of that vitality in recent years but this vintage rekindles the excitement, with very lifted toasty, cedary oak, chocolate and loads of cassis and mint. Full bodied, dense and elegant with firm tannin that will see it age 10 years. But also balanced to enjoy know as well—decant for an hour first.

All Greek Wine

Posted on April 23, 2007

Wine of the Week

Katogi-Strofilia 2004 Xinomavro, Naoussa, Greece ($19.00, Rubaiyat Wines 416-462-1577, score 89)
One of the star reds of the Greek Wine Road Show that touched down in Toronto last week. A pale but amazingly floral, flavourful, vibrant red from the native xinomavro grape that is finding new legs with modern winemaking in the Naoussa district of northwestern Greece. Not unlike pinot noir or nebbiolo, this has complexity and structure beyond its light appearance. Lifted aromas of violets, strawberry, sour cherry and fine spice. Mid-weight, firm and harmonious with some bitter, gritty tannin. Excellent length. Best 2008 to 2011.

David Lawrason

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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