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Lawrason On Wine

Spring Riesling

Posted on May 8, 2006

A spring riesling release blossoms at Vintages on Saturday, May 13, with an impressive international array of good value wines. This grape is finally breaking through so if you haven’t made it a fair weather friend yet, please examine your prejudices. There are genuine values from long established Niagara riesling producers like Cave Spring 2004 Riesling Reserve **** ($16.95 Vintages Essential) and Chateau des Charmes 2004 Estate Riesling (Black Label) ***1/2 ($15.95, Vintages May 13).

The best Germans are the quality show stealers, however—what compaction, tension and finesse! Three are thrilling: the gorgeous Selbach-Oster 2004 Bernkastel Badstube Riesling Auslese, Mosel ***** ($28.95 Vintages May 13), the vibrant Toni Jost 2004 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett, Mittelrhein **** ($21.95 Vintages May 13), and the seductive Geil 2004 Becheimer Geyserberg Riesling Spatlese, Rheinhessen **** ($15.95, Vintages May 13). I’m not a fan of the new Kendermann Terroir wines themed in this release, although it is good to see the blenders of EU Black Tower stepping into the realm of more specific appellation wines.

For other great German rieslings go beyond Vintages and head to Halpern’s (416-593-2662) huge consignment portfolio—the largest in Ontario—for the Kunstler rieslings of the Rheingau. Founded in 1965 (no, not 1665), modernist Gunter Kunstler has won three consecutive titles as best winemaker of Germany at London’s International Wine Competition thanks to a pristine, precise yet generous style. Don’t hesitate to buy the elegant Kunstler 2004 Old Vine Stielweg ****1/2 ($24.20), or the vibrant Kunstler 2004 Hocheimer Holle Riesling Kabinett **** ($20.87). The real surprise is a terrific New World style hot vintage (slightly hot finishing) pinot noir unlike anything I’ve yet tasted from Germany, the Kunstler 2003 Pinot Noir R **** ($34.06).

Until the next pour...

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David Lawrason

David Lawrason

David Lawrason has worked full time as one of Canada's leading, independent wine writers and educators for over 20 years. He was the founder of Wine Access magazine and Globe and Mail wine columnist for 13 years before becoming resident wine guy at Toronto Life, where he pens a monthly column and writes an exhaustive review of LCBO general listings for the annual Food and Wine Guide. As a wine educator he has taught sommelier programs at George Brown, Humber and Niagara Colleges, and has run popular public courses in Toronto since 1988. He has visited every major wine major producing country in the world, while focusing recently on the booming Canadian wine scene, as founder of the Canadian Wine Awards program, and Canadian wine columnist for Wine Access.

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